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#5368 - 08/13/02 04:49 PM new hampshire aid...
Anonymous
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what are some good easy aid (clean?) routes in nh? something good to rope solo. or something long to practice hauling etc

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#5369 - 08/13/02 07:40 PM Re: new hampshire aid...
cori Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/20/01
Posts: 1357
The Prow on Cathedral is aidable and clean. Gives you practice in hauling on a traverse, roof, chimney, etc. The Mordar wall has some but I have never done that myself. Looked a bit boring to me, but a lot of people like it.

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#5370 - 08/13/02 11:11 PM Re: new hampshire aid...
Eddie Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1446
Loc: NP. NY
i do not know about the mordor looking boring?!?!? hhhmmmm? looked great to me. had no bat hooks...stupid me.
the prow is a good line. i am not sure about the hauling. if you arte planning to haul, get on the steepist route available....less than verticle stuff will beat the shit out of the bag, not to metion being terrible difficult to haul through..
i am going to haul off the le teton part of the gunks. i have a new technique i want to try. maybe i should do it off fat city direct...even steeper. hhhmmm!
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#5371 - 08/14/02 05:15 AM Re: new hampshire aid... [Re: cori]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
The Mordar wall has some but I have never done that myself. Looked a bit boring to me, but a lot of people like it.

Um, mandrew was asking for easy aid climbs. True, the Mordor Wall may not quite be the A4 it once was but with the expando flake, bat hook traverse, rurp seam, and roof, it still doesn't qualify as easy. Boring? Geeze, what do you consider exciting?
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#5372 - 08/14/02 02:51 PM Re: new hampshire aid... [Re: MarcC]
cori Offline
veteran

Registered: 07/20/01
Posts: 1357
I don't know - sorry guys. I guess I sometimes have a hard time getting into aid climbing. I don't know why. Sorry to say it looked boring because I see that if you like aid climbing it looks exciting. I appologise

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#5373 - 08/15/02 05:10 PM Re: new hampshire aid... [Re: cori]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Don't let the Mordor scare you. The aid is pretty easy and I think it is overrated at A3. You can also rap the entire route from any pitch if you are moving slow or sketched.

The expando flake on P1 is much more solid than it sounds. The right corner of it where it was the worst blew off earlier this summer anyway. Cam hooks greatly speed this pitch up. otherwise bring HBs and small wires.

The hooking on P2 is very easy. All of the holes are drilled out at an angle and are very friendly. You have a hard time getting the hooks out of most of the holes after you move to the next one. Plus the max number of moves between bomber bolts is 3 or 4 moves. Most times just 2 moves. Easist hooking you will ever do. The bashie ladder is easy, because all of them are fixed. It is more of a head game moving on them, but once again there are bolts every couple of moves and the fall is totally clean. A bunch of the bashies just got replaced this year so they should be in good shape. Just make sure the second knows how to lower off bolts to clean the hook traverse. It will save much headaches.

P3 is an A1 bolt ladder and crack. Very straight forward.

The roof pitch is easy, but strenous. A very wild pitch.

Have fun and try Grand Finale if the Mordor goes well. A better route in my opinion. Not as fixed and straight forward.

Also, the first ptich of Angles highway is good for practicing systems. A steep bolt ladder with only a few gear placements. The second pitch is real fun, but requires some free climbing and some crafty placements.

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#5374 - 08/15/02 05:49 PM Re: new hampshire aid...
Dizzy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 2177
Loc: Berkshires, MA and Ahlington, ...
Mandrew,
Other options are to aid some climbs which are now free but were originally aid lines. Climbs like Pendulum, Lights in the Forest, The Bridge of Khazad Dhum are some that come to mind. Look through the guidebook you'll see what I mean. All these can be climbed clean and there are some really spectacular positions on them. They are also not very busy being on the upper end of the freeclimbing scale.

Ta,
Dizz
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