Maybe I am an idiot, or maybe I am a sucky route finder. But, I cannot find the 5.4 way to move off the big ledge on Belly Roll. (THe ledge that has the nice horizonatal before you go up into a "chimney type feature" with a tree growing in it, P1) I have lead a few Gunks 5.9s and that move off the Belly Roll ledge still scares me. What the heck am I missing? (I am short...does this factor into why I am so lame on this move?)

if you're talking the first big ledge...low down...and you're in a small left facing corner/dihedral.....then part layback, part jugs...if you want to feel really secure you can even squeeze out a hand jam...no problem at 5.4...its only one move....i dont know how short you are....but i'm not exactly tall....and i dont think height would really be an issue for the move....

if you're talking the upper 'ledge' before the beautiful white face with horizontal buckets galore....then you weave a little left and right...but generally follow the rotten old rusted pitons...

You are not missing anything. The move off the ledge is the crux for me. I am 5'. And yes, height is an issue for that move.

It's reachy: one insecure move off the ledge and you're back to 5.4.

Ok, I have been doing this climb for years and I have always felt that move was insecure. I have been trying new ways to pull it and no matter what I try, it's still 1 insecure move to the jugs.

the problem is probably that you have too much gear on...solo the route and it'll feel a lot easier

Actually, I did it again today and it felt really easy. I think I was moving too far right.

nice job

always been one of my favorites...

Don't listen to him Gail! Keep the gear.

Good to hear you're enjoying youself.

i'm just sayin....if you ever thought the belly roll move was a little awkward....you ought to try it without the rack, harness and rope sometime...much more comfortable

I wasn't dissing you. I know Gail from way back (at least I think it's the same Gail)She would never solo anything that high anyway.

A couple years ago I was climbing Jackie and saw a woman soloing about 25-30 ft up on Belly roll. She was stopped and wasn't going up or down for a long time, maybe 5 minutes or more. I asked if she was all right and she indicated she was stuck up there. I climbed up and put some pieces in she could grab onto to to help her down-climb. She didn't need them. I think just seeing me climb down beside her helped her get her head back.

When I first climbed up to her to help she asked me: "Are you a guide?" I said "No, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night." Unfortunately, she had never seen the commercials.

She said her boyfriend told her to go out and solo some 5.4's to get her climbing head. Didn't work so well. We climbed a little while together. She was a very good climber.

Hah! Love it.

thats classic

Perry, It's me...

Are you doing much climbing these days? Let us know when you are coming to the gunks...come stay with us.

Gail

I found the ledges above the chimney/off-width were the harder grade. Maybe 5.5/5.6- at times. Keep in mind that those large ledges with gutsy moves from them are essentially ground falls with only one piece of pro 6 feet up and 40+ foot of rope out. Thankfully I climb a lot stronger than 5.4 so I went ahead anyway, but there's no doubt Belly Roll's a bit sandbaged like a lot of so-called 'easy' Gunks climbs.

I'm guessing the boyfriend was no more?..

That's got to be up there on the A-list of all-time stupid pieces of advice.

Guess he just didn't have the guts to break up with her in person.

Hah! That's a break-up technique I had never thought of.

Ain't that the truth. Just when you think you've heard it all...

Or might it be an are-you-stupid-enough-to-heed-this-advice test?

That would be saying I'f you are that stupid I don't care about you. Would it matter? No differenc to me.

I'm really "holding my tongue on this one", and hopefully as is often the case, there is more to this than we know.