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#54644 - 09/09/10 07:14 PM Re: Friends and Lovers [Re: Frank Florence]
wonderwoman Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 45
I just led this on Sunday and would agree with the PG rating, but not R. Having a trusty belayer that I know will keep me off the ground was helpful for the lower crux (plus my pieces were good)!

I was able to place two cams at my feet before the last crux. As I was placing a c3 behind the tiny flake, I got hit in the face with a rope that was knocked off the ledge above me. That was the real crux for me! But I still managed the onsight.

I liked this climb!


Edited by wonderwoman (09/09/10 08:10 PM)

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#54645 - 09/09/10 07:39 PM Re: Friends and Lovers [Re: wonderwoman]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2025
Loc: SoCal
Tiff, you rock !!!

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#54650 - 09/09/10 08:27 PM Re: Friends and Lovers [Re: wonderwoman]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1014
Loc: Newtown, CT
Originally Posted By: wonderwoman
I just led this on Sunday and would agree with the PG rating, but not R. Having a trusty belayer that I know will keep me off the ground was helpful for the lower crux (plus my pieces were good)!

I was able to place two cams at my feet before the last crux. As I was placing a c3 behind the tiny flake, I got hit in the face with a rope that was knocked off the ledge above me. That was the real crux for me! But I still managed the onsight.

I liked this climb!


Nice job. Not sure where you ever have to worry about your belayer keeping you off of the ground on this one as the first crux is at least 20 feet up with great gear right there.

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#54652 - 09/09/10 08:36 PM Re: Friends and Lovers [Re: Coppertone]
wonderwoman Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 45
It certainly felt like getting over the little lip was closer than 20ft off the ground. Maybe my perspective was skewed. Anyway, I liked it. Pretty balancy and lots-o-fun.

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#54691 - 09/10/10 12:57 PM Re: Friends and Lovers [Re: wonderwoman]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 290
one of the nicest routes at the grade in the trapps

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#56631 - 02/03/11 01:37 AM Re: Friends and Lovers [Re: Frank Florence]
johnnyontherocks Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/06/00
Posts: 791
Loc: Bethlehem Pa
Where this climbs gear is spooky its only 5.6 or 5.7 at best. therebis super bomber gear right at your feet green and purple camalot unless they don't make them any more just my two cents
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Johnny on the Rocks Cosmic Hero

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