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#53722 - 08/09/10 03:34 AM Belly Roll: Where is the 5.4 move off the ledge?
Gail Online   content
newbie

Registered: 08/01/07
Posts: 26
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Maybe I am an idiot, or maybe I am a sucky route finder. But, I cannot find the 5.4 way to move off the big ledge on Belly Roll. (THe ledge that has the nice horizonatal before you go up into a "chimney type feature" with a tree growing in it, P1) I have lead a few Gunks 5.9s and that move off the Belly Roll ledge still scares me. What the heck am I missing? (I am short...does this factor into why I am so lame on this move?)


Edited by Gail (08/09/10 12:21 PM)

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#53723 - 08/09/10 06:19 AM Re: Belly Roll: Where is the 5.4 move off the ledge? [Re: Gail]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 290
if you're talking the first big ledge...low down...and you're in a small left facing corner/dihedral.....then part layback, part jugs...if you want to feel really secure you can even squeeze out a hand jam...no problem at 5.4...its only one move....i dont know how short you are....but i'm not exactly tall....and i dont think height would really be an issue for the move....

if you're talking the upper 'ledge' before the beautiful white face with horizontal buckets galore....then you weave a little left and right...but generally follow the rotten old rusted pitons...

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#53725 - 08/09/10 11:45 AM Re: Belly Roll: Where is the 5.4 move off the ledge? [Re: schwortz]
gunks Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/26/01
Posts: 72
Loc: Rosendale, NY
You are not missing anything. The move off the ledge is the crux for me. I am 5'. And yes, height is an issue for that move.

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#53732 - 08/09/10 02:09 PM Re: Belly Roll: Where is the 5.4 move off the ledge? [Re: gunks]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2025
Loc: SoCal
It's reachy: one insecure move off the ledge and you're back to 5.4.

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#53744 - 08/09/10 06:52 PM Re: Belly Roll: Where is the 5.4 move off the ledge? [Re: Julie]
Gail Online   content
newbie

Registered: 08/01/07
Posts: 26
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Ok, I have been doing this climb for years and I have always felt that move was insecure. I have been trying new ways to pull it and no matter what I try, it's still 1 insecure move to the jugs.

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#53790 - 08/11/10 03:42 AM Re: Belly Roll: Where is the 5.4 move off the ledge? [Re: Gail]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 290
the problem is probably that you have too much gear on...solo the route and it'll feel a lot easier

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#53868 - 08/14/10 12:46 AM Re: Belly Roll: Where is the 5.4 move off the ledge? [Re: schwortz]
Gail Online   content
newbie

Registered: 08/01/07
Posts: 26
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Actually, I did it again today and it felt really easy. I think I was moving too far right.

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#53871 - 08/14/10 02:12 AM Re: Belly Roll: Where is the 5.4 move off the ledge? [Re: Gail]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 290
nice job

always been one of my favorites...

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#53878 - 08/16/10 02:02 AM Re: Belly Roll: Where is the 5.4 move off the ledge? [Re: schwortz]
Allenperry Offline
member

Registered: 02/11/03
Posts: 195
Loc: Reading, Pennsylvania
Originally Posted By: schwortz
the problem is probably that you have too much gear on...solo the route and it'll feel a lot easier

Don't listen to him Gail! Keep the gear.

Good to hear you're enjoying youself.
_________________________
Perry

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#53901 - 08/16/10 09:31 PM Re: Belly Roll: Where is the 5.4 move off the ledge? [Re: Allenperry]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 290
i'm just sayin....if you ever thought the belly roll move was a little awkward....you ought to try it without the rack, harness and rope sometime...much more comfortable

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