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#54615 - 09/09/10 12:40 PM Re: The other pin on Three Doves... [Re: whatthegunks]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 283
do not replace pin

gear available and safe

all routes not from gym

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#54618 - 09/09/10 02:12 PM Re: The other pin on Three Doves... [Re: schwortz]
chip Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2491
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
My bad. I was thinking that the #1 was the little silver C3, instead it is the red one. Roughly the range of a green alien but narrower head and more than adequate.

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#54619 - 09/09/10 02:19 PM Re: The other pin on Three Doves... [Re: whatthegunks]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
I remember catching an Aya fall on that pin... there is some other gear not too far away - in the place Dave mentioned above and to the right.

But the problem for the nervous 5.8 leader is getting there


Edited by pedestrian (09/09/10 02:48 PM)

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#54623 - 09/09/10 02:58 PM Re: The other pin on Three Doves... [Re: Coppertone]
retr2327 Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/14/07
Posts: 97
"I have gotten a blue or green alien in that spot . . ."

An Alien!!!!??? You're gonna die for sure . . . .

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#54626 - 09/09/10 03:25 PM Re: The other pin on Three Doves... [Re: retr2327]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 999
Loc: Newtown, CT
Originally Posted By: retr2327
"I have gotten a blue or green alien in that spot . . ."

An Alien!!!!??? You're gonna die for sure . . . .


All my Aliens predate the drunken employee with bad brazes and all have been fallen on. I trust em'.

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#54629 - 09/09/10 03:42 PM Re: The other pin on Three Doves... [Re: whatthegunks]
Julka7 Offline
stranger

Registered: 07/07/09
Posts: 10
Loc: Gardiner, NY
I wonder how many pins you can pull out if you clip them and yank on them really hard outward. I always assumed that pins are meant to take downward falls and the fact that you can pull them outward doesn't necessarily imply they can't take a fall.
I also don't think too many people assume that pins are bomber. On one hand, yes, it's false sense of security, but you can't discount the psychological "it might hold" factor that often gives you the confidence to make the move.
This train of thought doesn't really contribute to "replace or not replace" discussion. I just don't think we should be yanking the old pins out just because they're questionable, since they're questionable by default.

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#54636 - 09/09/10 05:02 PM Re: The other pin on Three Doves... [Re: Julka7]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 529
I wonder how many pins you can pull out if you clip them and yank on them really hard outward.

Good question. I can't scan it, but in North American Climber (long defunct), Paul Baird published a photo of the two pitons that were the rap/belay anchor for Coexistence. They were easily removed with several light hammer taps. Up to that point they had been fine - perhaps because no one had ever pulled out on them.

I can't remember what motivated us, but one fall (?1980) Todd Swain and I climbed quite a few popular routes, carried our hammers, and checked a lot of the fixed pitons. Some (not many) were quite good, most were mediocre at best, others were crap, and there was certainly an element of unpredictability in terms of quality. For the most part, we couldn't tell by looking at them if they were good. But that's not news.


Edited by Dana (09/10/10 02:31 AM)

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#55411 - 10/04/10 07:44 PM Re: The other pin on Three Doves... [Re: Dana]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 116
Loc: gardiner
let it be returned to its natural state (irony acknowledged)

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#55414 - 10/04/10 08:08 PM Re: The other pin on Three Doves... [Re: wombat]
SethG Offline
addict

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 406
Loc: NYC
Originally Posted By: wombat
let it be returned to its natural state (irony acknowledged)


So you want it to be covered in lichen the size of pancakes? That will take a while to arrange.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#55417 - 10/04/10 08:47 PM Re: The other pin on Three Doves... [Re: SethG]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 116
Loc: gardiner
that would be the "irony acknowledged" comment but thanks for clarifying

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