I wonder how many pins you can pull out if you clip them and yank on them really hard outward.
Good question. I can't scan it, but in North American Climber (long defunct), Paul Baird published a photo of the two pitons that were the rap/belay anchor for Coexistence. They were easily removed with several light hammer taps. Up to that point they had been fine - perhaps because no one had ever pulled out on them.
I can't remember what motivated us, but one fall (?1980) Todd Swain and I climbed quite a few popular routes, carried our hammers, and checked a lot of the fixed pitons. Some (not many) were quite good, most were mediocre at best, others were crap, and there was certainly an element of unpredictability in terms of quality. For the most part, we couldn't tell by looking at them if they were good. But that's not news.
Edited by Dana (09/10/10 02:31 AM)