So in an effort to go sans guide book and do some exploring, I have been looking for good lines in the middle of the Nears. Yes yes, they've all been done I understand, but they haven't been done by me. A lot of these routes are in almost first ascent condition. So going without a guidebook and forging your own path really gives one a sense of what the old timers had to put up with. I'll say this for one thing, I'm humbled.

So We did a line I thought looked like a 5.8, 5.9. Thin face climbing for 40' on somewhat clean, but dusty and crusty holds. Sort of runout. Finally cleared what I thought was a 5.9 crux well above gear and within the decking zone, and finished the route. Later examination of Dicks new guide says it is the first pitch of Elf Stone Direct, at 5.7??? I feel slightly chagrined at hesitating so long on what I thought would be a hard move.

Next we did a line to the left of Grease Gun Groove. An obvious crack through a blunt arete goes to a fixed anchor below what looks like a Grease Gun Groove style face above. This is about 25' high and ends at another tree ledge. The face is runout and steep, but with decent crimps. I get 3/4 of the way up the face and I am convinced I am going to die on a surprise 5.10 move well above gear. I'm sweating profusely in the hot sun, and shakily downclimb to the first anchor. later on we managed to get the rope up another nearby route and toprope the whole route. I missed the gear by one friggin move! I was convinced it was totally hard and runout up there. It was dirty for sure.

Looking at the book here at home turns out I was on a route called Fat and Weak..rated 5.5?? I actually backed off a 5.5? I am seriously humbled and have new respect for our forefathers.

We also did Loose Goose, and Lonely challenge. As it turns out, these 3 routes make quite a pleasant day of 5.5 climbing in the Nears. All of them are solid rock in their first pitches, mostly clean, and with the exception of the top of Fat and Weak, well protected. I know people regularly do Loose Goose, but I have never seen people on Fat and Weak or Lonely Challenge. I was particularly surprised with the quality of the latter route. Highly recommended for the first pitch.

The point of the post is this....if you leave the guidebook in the car, or even in the pack, and just climb what looks good, you give yourself a challenge above and beyond the physical. In essence, you are dealing with all the elements of a first ascent. Dirt, no chalk holds to follow, maybe some loose rock, no idea of how hard any move above you is going to get, and now idea of when your gear is going to runout.

If you tire of doing the same old 3 star routes again and again, I recommend taking this approach. You'll be surprised how fun and exciting a 5.5 can be. Next time I might even venture above these first pitch ledges and see what fate brings!

RR

Good stuff Rob. Inspiration to go past the beaten path to a road less traveled.

And once you get there, you'll find out why it's less traveled.

I feel like crapping my pants when I know what the route rating is. Going sans guide is in many ways easier for me because I don't feel any pressure but than to have fun, but I will back off more quickly. Rob, you are a visionary.

Nah, I'm just trying to get the feeling that my predecessors had when they were out there exploring. It's hardly visionary to back off a 5.5!

RR,

It is my understanding that the middle of the Nears is private property, is that accurate? Thanks

MPNA

Those second pitches in the middle of the Nears often scare me, RR!

Bring a lawn mower and broom for P2 of GGG

With all your resources MPNA you must be able to answer your own question.

Check your maps and post them up---soon.

Thanks.

"It is my understanding that the middle of the Nears is private property, is that accurate? Thanks"

Define 'middle' as in your reference to private property. Care to also remind those as to the approx distance of the cliff that is actually under private ownership.