Shout Box

Who's Online
0 registered (), 7 Guests and 3 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 >
Topic Options
#54720 - 09/10/10 10:51 PM Death block on Annie Oh
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 147
Loc: gardiner
On the second pitch, the big block at the start of the steepness is now REALLY loose. It is quite chalked so don't be sucked in. The moves to avoid it to the right are actually more fun absent to big jugs on the block.

Hopefully this can be cleared without killing anyone..

Top
#54722 - 09/10/10 11:17 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: wombat]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
You mean the block that makes up the crux of the pitch? I know it's always been fairly scary. Are you saying it has gotten worse?

Top
#54724 - 09/11/10 12:08 AM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: RangerRob]
HR1 Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/20/08
Posts: 34
Loc: New Paltz
I thought that the crux was a bit above the block?

Top
#54733 - 09/11/10 02:35 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: HR1]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
I remember it as having a good 1-2 inches of wobble. Is it more now?

Top
#54738 - 09/11/10 05:58 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: Julie]
oenophore Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5972
Loc: 212 land
You mean that &%*^%%$ triangular piece is still there after all these decades? If no one has inadvertently pulled it down, it must be a good hold although it sure doesn't feel like one.
_________________________

Top
#54742 - 09/11/10 08:46 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: oenophore]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Think how many decades the rockin' flake was in Mac-Reppy and keeping that o-hang a reasonable but disconcerting 5.8.

Is the loose block near the top of P1 of Cakewalk still there?
_________________________
- Marc

Top
#54743 - 09/11/10 10:23 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: MarcC]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: MarcC
Think how many decades the rockin' flake was in Mac-Reppy and keeping that o-hang a reasonable but disconcerting 5.8.


2.2 decades, to be precise. (FA in "65. Flake broke/fell out in "87.)

Top
#54744 - 09/11/10 11:30 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Rickster Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 848
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Probably in place long before the first ascent. Maybe thousands of years.

Top
#54753 - 09/12/10 12:34 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: Rickster]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
yeah but how many people were yarding on it a thousand years ago?

Top
#54757 - 09/12/10 06:12 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: RangerRob]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
This block?

(NOT ME!)


Top
#54758 - 09/12/10 07:25 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: Julie]
oenophore Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5972
Loc: 212 land
Ah yes.
_________________________

Top
#54759 - 09/12/10 08:15 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: oenophore]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Speaking of things that people yard on that are inexplicably still attached (note the horizontal crack at the "ankle" level):



[If you don't know and are on a Windoze machine, right click on the image, then "View Image" for full-size goodness.]
_________________________
- Marc

Top
#54760 - 09/12/10 08:24 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: MarcC]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2471
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I have never, ever, so much as touched that block. I do think that climbing around it without using it in any way pushes the grade to 5.9-.

Above that block is a very large rectagular flake that is separated from the main wall by a crack running around the entire perimeter. People stuff cams in the top of that flake and stand on it.

A time will come when that flake goes. One hopes geological time.

Top
#54762 - 09/13/10 01:57 AM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: rg@ofmc]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Sounds like I was the only one to lead that pitch without know there was a big, loose block at the crux. Woke me up when I pulled! The excursion was enough to convince me not to touch it again.

Top
#54763 - 09/13/10 12:17 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: chip]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I think it is definitely the crux of the route. All that doubt starts creeping into your head. "What am I doing here?? This thing is going to come off and I am going to kill my belayer and everyone below me! I should back off. Why am I still contemplating this? This is stupid!.......Oh..look at that, I made it past. The climbing above is so wonderfully non scary!"

Top
#54774 - 09/13/10 07:41 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: RangerRob]
Kent Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/21/00
Posts: 1038
Loc: The Bayards
Does anyone remember the loose block on P2 of Grim-Ace Face? The last time I saw it intact, back in 2004 or so, you could nudge it with your finger and it would rotate back and forth. A week later it had either fallen of its own accord or it had been trundled.

Over in the Bayards there is stuff like that all over the place.

Top
#54775 - 09/13/10 09:08 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: Kent]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Sounds like the Bayards needs a little more climber traffic :-)

Top
#54776 - 09/13/10 09:18 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: chip]
Kent Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/21/00
Posts: 1038
Loc: The Bayards
Haha. Caveat emptor.

Top
#54777 - 09/13/10 09:21 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: Kent]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
And well replied, Kent.

Top
#55410 - 10/04/10 07:37 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: chip]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 147
Loc: gardiner
It felt alot looser to me than it had in previous trips. I would not counter RG's assessment but I always find that something seems harder when intentionally avoiding a block that you are concerned might cleave your spouse in twain.

Speaking of which...first time up Nurses Aid yesterday. How long has that fractured chockstone up top been there? I really wanted to yard on that one by the time I got there!

Does one use the old Millbrook trail to get to the Bayards climbs? The re-routed trail really bites.

Top
#55419 - 10/04/10 09:56 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: wombat]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Speaking of which...first time up Nurses Aid yesterday. How long has that fractured chockstone up top been there? I

Since 1980, at least.

Top
#55425 - 10/05/10 12:37 AM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: wombat]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
I was on Annie O yesterday as the block did seem a bit looser than in past years. It isn't all that hard to avoid using in all together. I don't think that is really any harder if you avoid the block completely. There is a good little pocket just to the right that works fine.

Top
#55427 - 10/05/10 01:09 AM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: Coppertone]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I almost sh!t my pants the first time I grabbed that block.

Top
#66896 - 11/12/12 04:45 AM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: chip]
socialist1 Offline
member

Registered: 08/05/04
Posts: 147
Loc: New Brunswick, NJ
This is now gone! (and at the base of Three Doves)

Is there a story?

Top
#66898 - 11/12/12 02:47 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: socialist1]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Hopefully fell off by itself, but I doubt it.

Top
#66899 - 11/12/12 06:02 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: socialist1]
tradjunkie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 365
Holy cow. So did you climb the route without the block? How is it without it?

Top
#66900 - 11/12/12 06:59 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: tradjunkie]
socialist1 Offline
member

Registered: 08/05/04
Posts: 147
Loc: New Brunswick, NJ
Yep, climbed it yesterday.

I never used it before, and would instead stay low underneath it until I could get around to holds slightly right and above it. This used to involve smaller but good holds at the base where the block sat. With the block gone, there is now a giant jug. So it is a little bit easier for those who didn't use the block.

For those who used it before, I speculate it might be a little bit harder but still the same grade.

Top
#66901 - 11/12/12 08:06 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: socialist1]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
PHOTOS!!! We need photos!!!!!

Top
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 >


Moderator:  webmaster 
Sponsored