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#54758 - 09/12/10 07:25 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: Julie]
oenophore Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5977
Loc: 212 land
Ah yes.
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#54759 - 09/12/10 08:15 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: oenophore]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Speaking of things that people yard on that are inexplicably still attached (note the horizontal crack at the "ankle" level):



[If you don't know and are on a Windoze machine, right click on the image, then "View Image" for full-size goodness.]
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- Marc

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#54760 - 09/12/10 08:24 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: MarcC]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I have never, ever, so much as touched that block. I do think that climbing around it without using it in any way pushes the grade to 5.9-.

Above that block is a very large rectagular flake that is separated from the main wall by a crack running around the entire perimeter. People stuff cams in the top of that flake and stand on it.

A time will come when that flake goes. One hopes geological time.

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#54762 - 09/13/10 01:57 AM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: rg@ofmc]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2677
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Sounds like I was the only one to lead that pitch without know there was a big, loose block at the crux. Woke me up when I pulled! The excursion was enough to convince me not to touch it again.

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#54763 - 09/13/10 12:17 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: chip]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I think it is definitely the crux of the route. All that doubt starts creeping into your head. "What am I doing here?? This thing is going to come off and I am going to kill my belayer and everyone below me! I should back off. Why am I still contemplating this? This is stupid!.......Oh..look at that, I made it past. The climbing above is so wonderfully non scary!"

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#54774 - 09/13/10 07:41 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: RangerRob]
Kent Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/21/00
Posts: 1038
Loc: The Bayards
Does anyone remember the loose block on P2 of Grim-Ace Face? The last time I saw it intact, back in 2004 or so, you could nudge it with your finger and it would rotate back and forth. A week later it had either fallen of its own accord or it had been trundled.

Over in the Bayards there is stuff like that all over the place.

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#54775 - 09/13/10 09:08 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: Kent]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2677
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Sounds like the Bayards needs a little more climber traffic :-)

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#54776 - 09/13/10 09:18 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: chip]
Kent Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/21/00
Posts: 1038
Loc: The Bayards
Haha. Caveat emptor.

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#54777 - 09/13/10 09:21 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: Kent]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2677
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
And well replied, Kent.

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#55410 - 10/04/10 07:37 PM Re: Death block on Annie Oh [Re: chip]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 147
Loc: gardiner
It felt alot looser to me than it had in previous trips. I would not counter RG's assessment but I always find that something seems harder when intentionally avoiding a block that you are concerned might cleave your spouse in twain.

Speaking of which...first time up Nurses Aid yesterday. How long has that fractured chockstone up top been there? I really wanted to yard on that one by the time I got there!

Does one use the old Millbrook trail to get to the Bayards climbs? The re-routed trail really bites.

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