Loc: Ulster County, NY
I think it is definitely the crux of the route. All that doubt starts creeping into your head. "What am I doing here?? This thing is going to come off and I am going to kill my belayer and everyone below me! I should back off. Why am I still contemplating this? This is stupid!.......Oh..look at that, I made it past. The climbing above is so wonderfully non scary!"
Does anyone remember the loose block on P2 of Grim-Ace Face? The last time I saw it intact, back in 2004 or so, you could nudge it with your finger and it would rotate back and forth. A week later it had either fallen of its own accord or it had been trundled.
Over in the Bayards there is stuff like that all over the place.
It felt alot looser to me than it had in previous trips. I would not counter RG's assessment but I always find that something seems harder when intentionally avoiding a block that you are concerned might cleave your spouse in twain.
Speaking of which...first time up Nurses Aid yesterday. How long has that fractured chockstone up top been there? I really wanted to yard on that one by the time I got there!
Does one use the old Millbrook trail to get to the Bayards climbs? The re-routed trail really bites.