Ah yes.

Speaking of things that people yard on that are inexplicably still attached (note the horizontal crack at the "ankle" level):



[If you don't know and are on a Windoze machine, right click on the image, then "View Image" for full-size goodness.]

I have never, ever, so much as touched that block. I do think that climbing around it without using it in any way pushes the grade to 5.9-.

Above that block is a very large rectagular flake that is separated from the main wall by a crack running around the entire perimeter. People stuff cams in the top of that flake and stand on it.

A time will come when that flake goes. One hopes geological time.

Sounds like I was the only one to lead that pitch without know there was a big, loose block at the crux. Woke me up when I pulled! The excursion was enough to convince me not to touch it again.

I think it is definitely the crux of the route. All that doubt starts creeping into your head. "What am I doing here?? This thing is going to come off and I am going to kill my belayer and everyone below me! I should back off. Why am I still contemplating this? This is stupid!.......Oh..look at that, I made it past. The climbing above is so wonderfully non scary!"

Does anyone remember the loose block on P2 of Grim-Ace Face? The last time I saw it intact, back in 2004 or so, you could nudge it with your finger and it would rotate back and forth. A week later it had either fallen of its own accord or it had been trundled.

Over in the Bayards there is stuff like that all over the place.

Sounds like the Bayards needs a little more climber traffic :-)

Haha. Caveat emptor.

And well replied, Kent.

It felt alot looser to me than it had in previous trips. I would not counter RG's assessment but I always find that something seems harder when intentionally avoiding a block that you are concerned might cleave your spouse in twain.

Speaking of which...first time up Nurses Aid yesterday. How long has that fractured chockstone up top been there? I really wanted to yard on that one by the time I got there!

Does one use the old Millbrook trail to get to the Bayards climbs? The re-routed trail really bites.