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#61681 - 11/29/11 09:40 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: chip]
fotovult Offline
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 125
Loc: ny
fresh one for y'all, in keeping with the recent holiday...

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#61682 - 11/29/11 09:49 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: fotovult]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1040
Loc: hamlet's hand
Wishbone Roof. Haven't lived 'til you've done the coathanger toe-hook.
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#61683 - 11/29/11 10:24 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: fotovult]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
no pro for wishbone?
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#61685 - 11/29/11 11:01 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: talus]
RangerRob Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
You can sling the chockstone up in the roof. Seth, the nut placement for the crux on Wegetables is a pretty truck #7 placed sideways. It only looks shitty while high stepping way out to the right of it. The nut placement itself is bomber.

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#61688 - 11/30/11 02:12 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: RangerRob]
yorick Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/02
Posts: 1040
Loc: hamlet's hand
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Seth, the nut placement for the crux on Wegetables is a pretty truck #7 placed sideways.


Rob, the crux on Wegetables is the low face with a thin nut, maybe backed up by a little cam. None of those moves clearing the tiers are 10 - it's just burly getting through them placing gear.
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Shongum ain't Indian,
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#61689 - 11/30/11 02:19 AM Re: Guess the route [Re: yorick]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
I don't think the opening moves are 10 either. I've seen too many barely-10-capable climbers just breeze through them for it to be 5.10. I agree the roof moves aren't 10 either, at least not considered separately. But the combined effect is, as you say, burly, so I guess (and agree) that this pitch is a 10 for enduro/stamina reasons). When passably-10-capable climbers fall on this route, it usually around the second roof IME.

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#61691 - 11/30/11 01:52 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Mike Rawdon]
eparker_s Offline
journeyman

Registered: 03/16/11
Posts: 50
The nut Rob is talking about is at the low crux. As you pull up past that bulge with a seam in it and get off the foot rail there is an inconspicuous, shallow little notch that takes a nut, sideways, (black metolius on my rack) that is bomb. Just a little hard to spot/place.

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#61695 - 11/30/11 02:24 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: eparker_s]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2082
Loc: SoCal
yellow hb offset settles in there pretty good, and a small cam to keep it from thinking about moving.

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#61696 - 11/30/11 02:52 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Julie]
SethG Online   content
addict

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 680
Loc: NYC
Just so your statistics are up to date, Mike, you should be aware that I fell off the very first move on Wegetables, missing the rail and falling back to earth, scraping up a couple fingers in the process!

I then chickened out and gave up the lead. And I sent it as the second, finding the early bits to be harder than the roofs. I intend to go back for the redpoint, so I appreciate the gear beta.
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#61701 - 11/30/11 04:23 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: SethG]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
My old-fashioned point of view is that the grade is supposed to tell you how hard the onsight lead is, which would mean that at least some of the physical strain in arranging protection is factored in. !0a is perfectly reasonable for Wegetables from this perspective.

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