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#33210 - 09/20/07 02:48 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Smike]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I'm with Smike.

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#33212 - 09/20/07 03:00 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: chip]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
Cory, you should post that picture on one of the ubiquitous "critique my anchor" threads on rc.com!

GO

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#33213 - 09/20/07 04:28 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: GOclimb]
core Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/25/07
Posts: 204
Smike, Madame G it is. It's funny how linking P2 and P3 can remove all of the "headiness" in that route, turning it into a nice long pitch full of pull-and-go moves.

edit:

I should say that's it's nice not to interrupt such a smooth, fun climb with a hanging gear belay.


Edited by core (09/20/07 05:16 PM)

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#33214 - 09/20/07 05:44 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: core]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: core
haha, exactly! I bet the manchor from which I'm hanging gives it away though...


For the life of me I cannot understand why Gunks climbers would want to put up with a cluster-f_ck like that instead of something simple like:

Sure, I understand the trad ethic, but really, there are limits to everything. I'm not arguing for convenience anchors or even safety issues, just simplicity. That cluster is far more unsightly and "unnatural" than a pair of barely visible bolts and quicklinks. Of course doing so next to a horizontal would get everyone's panties in a bunch, so once again ideology wins out over sesibility.
_________________________
- Marc

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#33218 - 09/20/07 06:31 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: Smike]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
The top belay hangout in the Trapps is High E ledge. the second is the top of Betty. As far as doing a semi hanging bely on two rusty pins and some ratty webbing ALMOST at the top of the cliff.....I'll pass.

RR

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#33219 - 09/20/07 07:12 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: RangerRob]
retr2327 Offline
member

Registered: 06/14/07
Posts: 108
"The top belay hangout in the Trapps is High E ledge."

Not even close. Three Doves, anyone? complete with belay seat, no dirt and dust, and bolted anchors?

The High E ledge does have a spectacular setting and view, but so does most of the top of the cliff

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#33221 - 09/20/07 08:03 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: retr2327]
core Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/25/07
Posts: 204
I dunno man...On a hot summer day, nothing beats this belay ledge (name it):


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#33223 - 09/20/07 08:52 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: MarcC]
oenophore Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5962
Loc: 212 land
That cluster is far more unsightly and "unnatural" than a pair of barely visible bolts and quicklinks.

But it disappears after the climb is done.
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#33224 - 09/20/07 08:57 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: oenophore]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: oenophore
But it disappears after the climb is done.

Look again. Except for the rightmost Alien (and, obviously, associated biners, slings and striped rope-o-lette), all of that stuff is resident, including the knotted grey rope (there's a quick-link at the power-point).
_________________________
- Marc

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#33225 - 09/20/07 09:09 PM Re: Guess the route [Re: MarcC]
oenophore Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5962
Loc: 212 land
 Originally Posted By: MarcC
 Originally Posted By: oenophore
But it disappears after the climb is done.

Look again. Except for the rightmost Alien (and, obviously, associated biners, slings and striped rope-o-lette), all of that stuff is resident, including the knotted grey rope (there's a quick-link at the power-point).
It took a download of the photo and some photo enhancement to show what you mean. There seems to be a fixed tricam, two angles and a hard-to-remove fixed spring-loaded device. I must agree that all that nylon is unsightly and its removal is desirable.
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