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#55736 - 10/27/10 03:52 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: WNK]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
I think Black Fly is a very good choice. On the easier side of the grade, and well protected.

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#55738 - 10/27/10 05:05 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Daniel]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
Modern Times is a good 5.5
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#55739 - 10/27/10 05:28 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: talus]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 713
Loc: NYC
You mean 5.5+.
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#55740 - 10/27/10 05:36 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: SethG]
Welle Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/03/08
Posts: 213
Loc: Western Slope
or 5.5d

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#55883 - 11/06/10 03:03 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Welle]
hangdog Offline
stranger

Registered: 12/30/04
Posts: 24
Loc: The Gunks
I agree about Tripple Bulges

Finger locks to triple bulges is the best 5.5 in the trapps. Lots of continuous climbing at or near the grade.

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#55896 - 11/08/10 06:56 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: hangdog]
Bolt_Skytop Offline
addict

Registered: 11/21/01
Posts: 422
Loc: New Paltz, New York
Finger locks to triple bulges is a great recommendation.
Black Fly is short and well protected.
No Picnic used to be 5.4 so its easy but the gear below the roof is fiddly and the easy slab below is runout.
RMC is a gimme at the grade. It has one 5.5 move. The gear for the move is not the best but everything else is 5.4 or less.
Jackie is classic at the grade and well protected but not easy for the grade.
Arch is easy but scary. Physical crux is off the ground. You will know the mental crux when you get there.
Dennis is great. The 5.5 crux is off the ground and if you blow it at the crux you will be fine with a good belay. Trust me on that one.
If you are swapping pitches with a stronger leader the second pitches of balrog or alley oop are awesome 5.5 faces.
I thought the second half of the first pitch of red pillar was run out.
Middle earth is fucking hard for the grade. It was too easy for a 5.7 but .5? Really?

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#55910 - 11/10/10 02:13 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Bolt_Skytop]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
That's because Middle Earth is a 5.6

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#55914 - 11/10/10 06:15 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: RangerRob]
Bolt_Skytop Offline
addict

Registered: 11/21/01
Posts: 422
Loc: New Paltz, New York
Too hard for a 5 too easy for a 7. 6 it is!

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#55916 - 11/11/10 12:39 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Bolt_Skytop]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Across the many editions of DW's guidebooks, Middle Earth has been rated 5.5, 5.6, and 5.7-. So take your pick.

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