Shout Box

Who's Online
0 registered (), 12 Guests and 3 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 >
Topic Options
#55669 - 10/22/10 06:42 PM 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps?
Puzman Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/25/08
Posts: 22
I've recently lead Fingerlocks, Horseman, and Sixish, and would like some recommendations for "easier" 5.5 leads in the Trapps.

Top
#55670 - 10/22/10 07:21 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Puzman]
damoneny Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/01/06
Posts: 11
Asphodel,Arch,Andrew (5.4), Frogs Head (easy 6),

Top
#55671 - 10/22/10 07:23 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Puzman]
The Lisa Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/05
Posts: 411
Loc: Da Bronx
Off the top of my head, No Picnic is a single-pitch climb at the south end of the traps, near 69 and Easy Keyhole and those climbs. Jackie is a classic.
The 3rd pitch of High Corner is fine, first two pitches are 5.3.
_________________________
Sent from my iPad.

Top
#55672 - 10/22/10 07:51 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: The Lisa]
WNK Offline
stranger

Registered: 12/08/03
Posts: 21
Loc: Western Massachusetts
I have friends who really like Black Fly (personally, I think it's nice, but...)
Hawk is an experience, but I wouldn't call it easy 5.5.

Oh, and you could try the 5.6 variation on Bunny
_________________________
Bill

Top
#55673 - 10/22/10 08:08 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: The Lisa]
tradjunkie Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 365
Hawk is a 4 but more daunting
RMC
Middle Earth p1
Rusty Trifle p1 is different and doable
You can do 3 Pines with variations on 1st and last pitch so not committing.

next steps up: Black Fly, Updraft, Dennis (easy to back off of), Shockleys Without.

People sometimes have more trouble with Ursula, Double Chin, Minty overhang, Blueberry Ledges, Red Pillar.

Top
#55674 - 10/22/10 11:19 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: tradjunkie]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2677
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I personally don't like the pro options on the crux of No Picnic.
The first pitch of Wrist is quite nice but you want to bring a #4 or 5 camalot for the top of it.
Otherwise, what the crowd says. Hard to go wrong on a 5.5 in the Trapps.

Top
#55676 - 10/23/10 01:45 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: chip]
The Lisa Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/05
Posts: 411
Loc: Da Bronx
Oh I forgot about RMC and Black Fly, they are 'easier' 5.5.
I have only been breaking into 5.5's this summer so they should have been fresh in my mind.
I backed off Ursula and Red Pillar AND Middle Earth so I still have to go back and tackle them.
_________________________
Sent from my iPad.

Top
#55690 - 10/24/10 08:40 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: The Lisa]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Check out the first pitch of Lonely Challenge. I thought it was pretty nice climbing at 5.5 with good gear. It ends at a rap tree and you can set up Fat and Weak.

Top
#55702 - 10/25/10 03:04 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: RangerRob]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
Swain puts Lonely Challenge at 5.5PG, but it's 5.6 in the latest Williams. I seem to remember it was a little thin, the beginners I had with me coudln't make it, but it was quite a long time ago.

Ursula is an odd start, only did it once (as a 5.9 leader) and didn't spend too much time trying to figure it out, but I wasn't all that crazy about it.
_________________________


Top
#55705 - 10/25/10 05:35 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: quanto_the_mad]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 710
Loc: NYC
I posted this over on the same thread on MP.com, but may as well say the same thing here:

Often on easier climbs there are exposed moves or challenging mental situations that make the climbs feel harder than the grade for some, and this is true of many of the great 5.5 climbs listed above.

Jackie has a slabby bit followed by an awkward overlap in the middle of the pitch that can be unnerving for some.

Dennis starts with an intimidating bulge right off the ground.

Ursula ascends a shallow dihedral on the first pitch requiring fiddly small gear. And the steep crux of the second pitch is right off the belay.

Nevertheless they're all wonderful! Dealing with these intimidating moments is part of what climbing in the Gunks is about. I would advise the OP not to look for "easy" 5.5s, but rather to look for the best ones, many of which have already been mentioned. You can do all the moves, I'm sure. And conquering the mental challeneges will prepare you for the next few grades.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

Top
#55708 - 10/25/10 07:18 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: RangerRob]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Check out the first pitch of Lonely Challenge. I thought it was pretty nice climbing at 5.5 with good gear.


Reading the subject of the thread FAIL.

Top
#55709 - 10/25/10 07:34 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: chip]
Welle Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/03/08
Posts: 213
Loc: Western Slope
Originally Posted By: chip
I personally don't like the pro options on the crux of No Picnic.
No Picnic was one of my first 5.5 leads and the crux protected fine, IIRC, either gold or red camalot at the lip of the roof. I remember it being a bit strenuous to get the pro in, but you can easily downclimb and rest before tackling the crux. I just didn't like how sandy the holds were above the roof...

Top
#55710 - 10/25/10 09:48 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: SethG]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
i think seth has a REALLY good point.

one of the great reasons to classically "work your way up through the grades" is so that you can experience things such as runouts, route-finding, bad weather, nightfall, bugs, animals, heat, cold, less than optimal to plain bad gear, etc all while on terrain which is not prohibitively difficult. that difficultly range will vary for each person, but building the pyramid from the base up is what allows you to move into a world where onsighting a hard-to-read R rated 5.10 isnt such a big deal - because you've you done the same at 5.2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and so on.

there are lots of good routes from 5.2 to 5.6 in the gunks where you can put this kind of philosophy into action. you may get around to your first 5.x a season later than some of your friends, but you'll probably be a more well-rounded climber because of it, and have more onsight success once the grades start getting pushed even if it takes you a season or two longer to get there.

all the 5s upthread sound like good ones. but dont avoid climbs like no picnic, hawk, arch, wrist, frogshead, or gelsa because they have tricky spots, runouts, or someone else debates the difference between 5.4+ and 5.5.

Top
#55712 - 10/25/10 10:19 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: schwortz]
The Lisa Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/05
Posts: 411
Loc: Da Bronx
+1 to what Schwortz said.
And I will add P1 of Sixish - took me forever to build up to going around the right-facing block just above the start AND I almost fluffed it. eek
_________________________
Sent from my iPad.

Top
#55714 - 10/25/10 10:42 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Puzman]
Ensonik Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/06/10
Posts: 1
I don't have enough Gunks experience to list the 'easier' ones, but I can say this.

Not Double Chin.

Top
#55715 - 10/25/10 11:24 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Ensonik]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
I disagree with the recommendation of Frog's Head. The polish at the crux makes this a very challenging move, in fact, not only is it 5.6, I'd say it's hard 5.6 at this point.

If we're going to add soft 5.6s to the list, I'd put in a vote for Disneyland.

Top
#55718 - 10/26/10 01:19 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Steven Cherry]
Climb_On Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 11
Loc: Pennsylvania
I'm also working through the 5.5's, so here's my take:

Arch - the climbing on the first pitch is not difficult, but is quite run out at times. The final pitch leftward exit has a tricky layback that felt harder than 5.5 (and strenuous to protect)

Frog's Head - I agree with Steven that the crux is slippery with a possible ledge fall as well

Hawk - a great climb, not difficult, but tricky route finding for a new leader

Jackie - maybe not "easy", but well protected with gear all the way up

Middle Earth - first pitch is straitforward with good gear. The third pitch has a roof at the start that is much harder than 5.5 if you don't hit it just right.

Red Pillar - I only followed this one, but it seemed challenging for 5.5

RMC - the easiest 5.5, highly recommended for breaking into 5's

Ursula - reasonable 5.5 if you get beta on the first pitch (going straight up is 5.7)

Wrist, first pitch - great 5.5, really fun layback if you bring a #4 or #5 to protect

Top
#55731 - 10/26/10 08:38 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Climb_On]
tallgirlnyc Offline
member

Registered: 05/12/08
Posts: 194
Loc: Cold Spring NY
I think Triple Bulges is a good 5.5...you pick it up after the first pitch of Twin Oaks.

Also, Rusty Trifle is a pretty chill 5.5 especially if you start on the Bloody Bush ledge.

Top
#55734 - 10/27/10 02:11 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: tallgirlnyc]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
FINALLY someone recommended triple bulges. one of my favorites.
i also agree that double chin eats a dick.
updraft is a good but spicy 5.5 but its a chimney, so you'd be hard pressed to fall out of there.
i'd stay away from funny face. i still find it scary as all get out.
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Top
#55735 - 10/27/10 02:19 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: empicard]
J@son Offline
member

Registered: 06/23/08
Posts: 101
Loc: New Jersey
Originally Posted By: empicard
FINALLY someone recommended triple bulges. one of my favorites.
i also agree that double chin eats a dick.
updraft is a good but spicy 5.5 but its a chimney, so you'd be hard pressed to fall out of there.
i'd stay away from funny face. i still find it scary as all get out.

I couldn't agree more
_________________________
Labor Omnia Vincit

Top
#55736 - 10/27/10 03:52 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: WNK]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
I think Black Fly is a very good choice. On the easier side of the grade, and well protected.

Top
#55738 - 10/27/10 05:05 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Daniel]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
Modern Times is a good 5.5
_________________________
John Okner Photography

Top
#55739 - 10/27/10 05:28 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: talus]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 710
Loc: NYC
You mean 5.5+.
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

Top
#55740 - 10/27/10 05:36 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: SethG]
Welle Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/03/08
Posts: 213
Loc: Western Slope
or 5.5d

Top
#55883 - 11/06/10 03:03 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Welle]
hangdog Offline
stranger

Registered: 12/30/04
Posts: 24
Loc: The Gunks
I agree about Tripple Bulges

Finger locks to triple bulges is the best 5.5 in the trapps. Lots of continuous climbing at or near the grade.

Top
#55896 - 11/08/10 06:56 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: hangdog]
Bolt_Skytop Offline
addict

Registered: 11/21/01
Posts: 422
Loc: New Paltz, New York
Finger locks to triple bulges is a great recommendation.
Black Fly is short and well protected.
No Picnic used to be 5.4 so its easy but the gear below the roof is fiddly and the easy slab below is runout.
RMC is a gimme at the grade. It has one 5.5 move. The gear for the move is not the best but everything else is 5.4 or less.
Jackie is classic at the grade and well protected but not easy for the grade.
Arch is easy but scary. Physical crux is off the ground. You will know the mental crux when you get there.
Dennis is great. The 5.5 crux is off the ground and if you blow it at the crux you will be fine with a good belay. Trust me on that one.
If you are swapping pitches with a stronger leader the second pitches of balrog or alley oop are awesome 5.5 faces.
I thought the second half of the first pitch of red pillar was run out.
Middle earth is fucking hard for the grade. It was too easy for a 5.7 but .5? Really?

Top
#55910 - 11/10/10 02:13 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Bolt_Skytop]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
That's because Middle Earth is a 5.6

Top
#55914 - 11/10/10 06:15 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: RangerRob]
Bolt_Skytop Offline
addict

Registered: 11/21/01
Posts: 422
Loc: New Paltz, New York
Too hard for a 5 too easy for a 7. 6 it is!

Top
#55916 - 11/11/10 12:39 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Bolt_Skytop]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Across the many editions of DW's guidebooks, Middle Earth has been rated 5.5, 5.6, and 5.7-. So take your pick.

Top
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 >


Moderator:  Mike Rawdon, Steven Cherry 
Sponsored