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#55669 - 10/22/10 06:42 PM 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps?
Puzman Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/25/08
Posts: 22
I've recently lead Fingerlocks, Horseman, and Sixish, and would like some recommendations for "easier" 5.5 leads in the Trapps.

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#55670 - 10/22/10 07:21 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Puzman]
damoneny Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/01/06
Posts: 11
Asphodel,Arch,Andrew (5.4), Frogs Head (easy 6),

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#55671 - 10/22/10 07:23 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Puzman]
The Lisa Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/05
Posts: 411
Loc: Da Bronx
Off the top of my head, No Picnic is a single-pitch climb at the south end of the traps, near 69 and Easy Keyhole and those climbs. Jackie is a classic.
The 3rd pitch of High Corner is fine, first two pitches are 5.3.
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#55672 - 10/22/10 07:51 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: The Lisa]
WNK Offline
stranger

Registered: 12/08/03
Posts: 21
Loc: Western Massachusetts
I have friends who really like Black Fly (personally, I think it's nice, but...)
Hawk is an experience, but I wouldn't call it easy 5.5.

Oh, and you could try the 5.6 variation on Bunny
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#55673 - 10/22/10 08:08 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: The Lisa]
tradjunkie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 359
Hawk is a 4 but more daunting
RMC
Middle Earth p1
Rusty Trifle p1 is different and doable
You can do 3 Pines with variations on 1st and last pitch so not committing.

next steps up: Black Fly, Updraft, Dennis (easy to back off of), Shockleys Without.

People sometimes have more trouble with Ursula, Double Chin, Minty overhang, Blueberry Ledges, Red Pillar.

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#55674 - 10/22/10 11:19 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: tradjunkie]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I personally don't like the pro options on the crux of No Picnic.
The first pitch of Wrist is quite nice but you want to bring a #4 or 5 camalot for the top of it.
Otherwise, what the crowd says. Hard to go wrong on a 5.5 in the Trapps.

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#55676 - 10/23/10 01:45 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: chip]
The Lisa Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/05
Posts: 411
Loc: Da Bronx
Oh I forgot about RMC and Black Fly, they are 'easier' 5.5.
I have only been breaking into 5.5's this summer so they should have been fresh in my mind.
I backed off Ursula and Red Pillar AND Middle Earth so I still have to go back and tackle them.
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#55690 - 10/24/10 08:40 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: The Lisa]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Check out the first pitch of Lonely Challenge. I thought it was pretty nice climbing at 5.5 with good gear. It ends at a rap tree and you can set up Fat and Weak.

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#55702 - 10/25/10 03:04 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: RangerRob]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
Swain puts Lonely Challenge at 5.5PG, but it's 5.6 in the latest Williams. I seem to remember it was a little thin, the beginners I had with me coudln't make it, but it was quite a long time ago.

Ursula is an odd start, only did it once (as a 5.9 leader) and didn't spend too much time trying to figure it out, but I wasn't all that crazy about it.
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#55705 - 10/25/10 05:35 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: quanto_the_mad]
SethG Offline
addict

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 680
Loc: NYC
I posted this over on the same thread on MP.com, but may as well say the same thing here:

Often on easier climbs there are exposed moves or challenging mental situations that make the climbs feel harder than the grade for some, and this is true of many of the great 5.5 climbs listed above.

Jackie has a slabby bit followed by an awkward overlap in the middle of the pitch that can be unnerving for some.

Dennis starts with an intimidating bulge right off the ground.

Ursula ascends a shallow dihedral on the first pitch requiring fiddly small gear. And the steep crux of the second pitch is right off the belay.

Nevertheless they're all wonderful! Dealing with these intimidating moments is part of what climbing in the Gunks is about. I would advise the OP not to look for "easy" 5.5s, but rather to look for the best ones, many of which have already been mentioned. You can do all the moves, I'm sure. And conquering the mental challeneges will prepare you for the next few grades.
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