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#55708 - 10/25/10 07:18 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: RangerRob]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Check out the first pitch of Lonely Challenge. I thought it was pretty nice climbing at 5.5 with good gear.


Reading the subject of the thread FAIL.

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#55709 - 10/25/10 07:34 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: chip]
Welle Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/03/08
Posts: 213
Loc: Western Slope
Originally Posted By: chip
I personally don't like the pro options on the crux of No Picnic.
No Picnic was one of my first 5.5 leads and the crux protected fine, IIRC, either gold or red camalot at the lip of the roof. I remember it being a bit strenuous to get the pro in, but you can easily downclimb and rest before tackling the crux. I just didn't like how sandy the holds were above the roof...

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#55710 - 10/25/10 09:48 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: SethG]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
i think seth has a REALLY good point.

one of the great reasons to classically "work your way up through the grades" is so that you can experience things such as runouts, route-finding, bad weather, nightfall, bugs, animals, heat, cold, less than optimal to plain bad gear, etc all while on terrain which is not prohibitively difficult. that difficultly range will vary for each person, but building the pyramid from the base up is what allows you to move into a world where onsighting a hard-to-read R rated 5.10 isnt such a big deal - because you've you done the same at 5.2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and so on.

there are lots of good routes from 5.2 to 5.6 in the gunks where you can put this kind of philosophy into action. you may get around to your first 5.x a season later than some of your friends, but you'll probably be a more well-rounded climber because of it, and have more onsight success once the grades start getting pushed even if it takes you a season or two longer to get there.

all the 5s upthread sound like good ones. but dont avoid climbs like no picnic, hawk, arch, wrist, frogshead, or gelsa because they have tricky spots, runouts, or someone else debates the difference between 5.4+ and 5.5.

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#55712 - 10/25/10 10:19 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: schwortz]
The Lisa Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/05
Posts: 411
Loc: Da Bronx
+1 to what Schwortz said.
And I will add P1 of Sixish - took me forever to build up to going around the right-facing block just above the start AND I almost fluffed it. eek
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#55714 - 10/25/10 10:42 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Puzman]
Ensonik Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/06/10
Posts: 1
I don't have enough Gunks experience to list the 'easier' ones, but I can say this.

Not Double Chin.

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#55715 - 10/25/10 11:24 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Ensonik]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
I disagree with the recommendation of Frog's Head. The polish at the crux makes this a very challenging move, in fact, not only is it 5.6, I'd say it's hard 5.6 at this point.

If we're going to add soft 5.6s to the list, I'd put in a vote for Disneyland.

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#55718 - 10/26/10 01:19 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Steven Cherry]
Climb_On Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 11
Loc: Pennsylvania
I'm also working through the 5.5's, so here's my take:

Arch - the climbing on the first pitch is not difficult, but is quite run out at times. The final pitch leftward exit has a tricky layback that felt harder than 5.5 (and strenuous to protect)

Frog's Head - I agree with Steven that the crux is slippery with a possible ledge fall as well

Hawk - a great climb, not difficult, but tricky route finding for a new leader

Jackie - maybe not "easy", but well protected with gear all the way up

Middle Earth - first pitch is straitforward with good gear. The third pitch has a roof at the start that is much harder than 5.5 if you don't hit it just right.

Red Pillar - I only followed this one, but it seemed challenging for 5.5

RMC - the easiest 5.5, highly recommended for breaking into 5's

Ursula - reasonable 5.5 if you get beta on the first pitch (going straight up is 5.7)

Wrist, first pitch - great 5.5, really fun layback if you bring a #4 or #5 to protect

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#55731 - 10/26/10 08:38 PM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: Climb_On]
tallgirlnyc Offline
member

Registered: 05/12/08
Posts: 193
Loc: Cold Spring NY
I think Triple Bulges is a good 5.5...you pick it up after the first pitch of Twin Oaks.

Also, Rusty Trifle is a pretty chill 5.5 especially if you start on the Bloody Bush ledge.

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#55734 - 10/27/10 02:11 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: tallgirlnyc]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2952
Loc: LI, NY
FINALLY someone recommended triple bulges. one of my favorites.
i also agree that double chin eats a dick.
updraft is a good but spicy 5.5 but its a chimney, so you'd be hard pressed to fall out of there.
i'd stay away from funny face. i still find it scary as all get out.
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#55735 - 10/27/10 02:19 AM Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps? [Re: empicard]
J@son Offline
member

Registered: 06/23/08
Posts: 101
Loc: New Jersey
Originally Posted By: empicard
FINALLY someone recommended triple bulges. one of my favorites.
i also agree that double chin eats a dick.
updraft is a good but spicy 5.5 but its a chimney, so you'd be hard pressed to fall out of there.
i'd stay away from funny face. i still find it scary as all get out.

I couldn't agree more
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