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#55709 - 10/25/10 07:34 PM
Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps?
[Re: chip]
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enthusiast
Registered: 11/03/08
Posts: 213
Loc: Western Slope
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I personally don't like the pro options on the crux of No Picnic.
No Picnic was one of my first 5.5 leads and the crux protected fine, IIRC, either gold or red camalot at the lip of the roof. I remember it being a bit strenuous to get the pro in, but you can easily downclimb and rest before tackling the crux. I just didn't like how sandy the holds were above the roof...
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#55710 - 10/25/10 09:48 PM
Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps?
[Re: SethG]
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enthusiast
Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
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i think seth has a REALLY good point.
one of the great reasons to classically "work your way up through the grades" is so that you can experience things such as runouts, route-finding, bad weather, nightfall, bugs, animals, heat, cold, less than optimal to plain bad gear, etc all while on terrain which is not prohibitively difficult. that difficultly range will vary for each person, but building the pyramid from the base up is what allows you to move into a world where onsighting a hard-to-read R rated 5.10 isnt such a big deal - because you've you done the same at 5.2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and so on.
there are lots of good routes from 5.2 to 5.6 in the gunks where you can put this kind of philosophy into action. you may get around to your first 5.x a season later than some of your friends, but you'll probably be a more well-rounded climber because of it, and have more onsight success once the grades start getting pushed even if it takes you a season or two longer to get there.
all the 5s upthread sound like good ones. but dont avoid climbs like no picnic, hawk, arch, wrist, frogshead, or gelsa because they have tricky spots, runouts, or someone else debates the difference between 5.4+ and 5.5.
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#55712 - 10/25/10 10:19 PM
Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps?
[Re: schwortz]
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addict
Registered: 04/26/05
Posts: 408
Loc: Da Bronx
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+1 to what Schwortz said. And I will add P1 of Sixish - took me forever to build up to going around the right-facing block just above the start AND I almost fluffed it. 
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#55714 - 10/25/10 10:42 PM
Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps?
[Re: Puzman]
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stranger
Registered: 03/06/10
Posts: 1
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I don't have enough Gunks experience to list the 'easier' ones, but I can say this.
Not Double Chin.
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#55718 - 10/26/10 01:19 AM
Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps?
[Re: Steven Cherry]
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stranger
Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 11
Loc: Pennsylvania
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I'm also working through the 5.5's, so here's my take:
Arch - the climbing on the first pitch is not difficult, but is quite run out at times. The final pitch leftward exit has a tricky layback that felt harder than 5.5 (and strenuous to protect)
Frog's Head - I agree with Steven that the crux is slippery with a possible ledge fall as well
Hawk - a great climb, not difficult, but tricky route finding for a new leader
Jackie - maybe not "easy", but well protected with gear all the way up
Middle Earth - first pitch is straitforward with good gear. The third pitch has a roof at the start that is much harder than 5.5 if you don't hit it just right.
Red Pillar - I only followed this one, but it seemed challenging for 5.5
RMC - the easiest 5.5, highly recommended for breaking into 5's
Ursula - reasonable 5.5 if you get beta on the first pitch (going straight up is 5.7)
Wrist, first pitch - great 5.5, really fun layback if you bring a #4 or #5 to protect
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#55734 - 10/27/10 02:11 AM
Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps?
[Re: tallgirlnyc]
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Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2952
Loc: LI, NY
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FINALLY someone recommended triple bulges. one of my favorites. i also agree that double chin eats a dick. updraft is a good but spicy 5.5 but its a chimney, so you'd be hard pressed to fall out of there. i'd stay away from funny face. i still find it scary as all get out.
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Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
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#55735 - 10/27/10 02:19 AM
Re: 5.5 recommendations in the Trapps?
[Re: empicard]
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member
Registered: 06/23/08
Posts: 100
Loc: New Jersey
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FINALLY someone recommended triple bulges. one of my favorites. i also agree that double chin eats a dick. updraft is a good but spicy 5.5 but its a chimney, so you'd be hard pressed to fall out of there. i'd stay away from funny face. i still find it scary as all get out. I couldn't agree more
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Labor Omnia Vincit
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