My first trip up that on Sunday and a couple observations.

1) Great climb with a variety of moves and styles.

2) For anyone planning on doing "gunks sport" and clipping the fixed nuts, one has a busted swage and the other 2/3 frayed. It was possible to fiddle something in behind since there was no way i would trust a fall on the nut and that pin. If anyone is in the vicinity with a hammer, it would be great to blow those things out.

3) that is one of the worst fixed anchors around. I don't know whether I liked the loose nut through the quick link or the slung sideways piton the least. It needs to be repaired or cleaned! I wasn't provisioned for either.

1. Absolutely, one of the best

2. Good looking out, maybe someone with a hammer will look into removing (replacing?) the busted little nut. I'm sure that those things have held a few falls, I hope that they're not horribly welded in the only available place for gear.

3. In the interest of safety and to discourage gang toproping, this anchor was removed by an unnamed climber a couple of years ago. It has since been replaced by other unnamed climbers, and it is actually in better condition than the initial anchor.

DL

skip the fixed mank, there is a green alien in the roof

Lucander - i shudder to think of the old one!

Aren't aliens worse than old rotten nuts?

I recollect doing the route a couple of time this season. In the spring, the anchor was perfectly fine. In the summer, the anchor was sketchy, so we had to down climb to the Birdland anchor. The anchor definitely had been modified for the worse in that interim period. My guess is that someone may have removed the fixed friend (or other big unit) that was located up to the left, leaving just shaky stuff.

Yes that's why you should give me your aliens

In the meantime, stuff a few pieces in to "back up" that manky as thing, then down climb to the bolted Birdland belay station and bring your partner up. From there, easily abseil or continue to the top.

no way dude!

although a green c3 went in behind the old nuts nicely enough