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#56733 - 02/17/11 12:03 AM Scarpa Phantom Guide Boot
damoneny Offline
stranger

Registered: 11/01/06
Posts: 11
Anyone own these or know anyone who does? Thinking about buying a pair and would love to hear how they are.
Thanks!

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#56734 - 02/17/11 03:00 AM Re: Scarpa Phantom Guide Boot [Re: damoneny]
mrhutt Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/02/07
Posts: 51
Loc: NJ
I have owned the following boots: LS Nepal EVO, LS Nuptse, Mad Rock Alpinist, LS Trango Prime, Lowa Mountain Expert, and most recently, the Scarpa Phantom Guide.

The Phantom Guide is the first boot I've ever owned where my feet aren't aching at the end of the day, I don't get ANY heel lift (at all), and they climb 5.8 Gunks routes surprisingly well. The SPG is the best boot I've ever owned. Just too damn expensive, but what are you gonna do...

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#56736 - 02/17/11 05:22 PM Re: Scarpa Phantom Guide Boot [Re: mrhutt]
Adrian Offline
journeyman

Registered: 03/12/09
Posts: 73
Hey, mrhutt, I'm looking to buy a pair of them. Just a few quick qeustions:
1. How to they hike? They have rocker sole, so they should be good, but I just want to make sure.
2. How to they breathe with the new gaiter system? When you do long approach, are your socks soaking wet?
3. How to they climb? Fitting issue such as crampons, lacing system, etc?

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#56746 - 02/20/11 05:42 AM Re: Scarpa Phantom Guide Boot [Re: Adrian]
mrhutt Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/02/07
Posts: 51
Loc: NJ
1 - Hard to say how they hike. I've spent about 15 days in them with approach/descent hikes ranging from 15 minutes to 5 hour backcountry slogs. However, just about all these hikes have been through loose snow, so I haven't been able to form an opinion on how they walk.

2 - Breathability seems to be on par with all the other boots I've owned. Socks are definitely damp at the end of a long day, but don't seem to be any more damp than with any of the other boots.

3 - Their performance is spectacular. There's a reason we're seeing photos of just about every top alpinist wearing them. My weak ass was able to climb Ken's Crack, Rhododendron, Lauren, and Horseman in them while wearing gloves. On ice, excellent performance as well, but with one major caveat - boot to crampon interface.

The newest crop of low profile boots do not fit BD or Grivel crampons that well, period. I have Cyborg Pro and Sabertooth crampons and my foot can slide about 1/2" in either direction, side to side, in the crampon. This is because the wire bail is the same design that's been in use for years and is also able to fit huge clunky double plastic boots. BD has been promising a new bail for these low profile, narrow-toed boots for months but I haven't seen anything yet. I'm in direct contact with Bill Belcourt (hardgoods manager at BD) but haven't heard anything yet about the release date. FWIW however, I have not had a single "oh shit" moment where I thought the crampon was going to pop off, it's that the whole fit just could be better. I've heard reports of many people buying Petzl replacement bails and mounting them on their BD and Grivel crampons and achieving much better fit. YMMV.

Hope this helps!

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#56755 - 02/21/11 06:58 PM Re: Scarpa Phantom Guide Boot [Re: mrhutt]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
and WHY do you own SO many pairs of boots?

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#56768 - 02/22/11 11:30 PM Re: Scarpa Phantom Guide Boot [Re: mrhutt]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: mrhutt
I have owned the following boots: LS Nepal EVO, LS Nuptse, Mad Rock Alpinist, LS Trango Prime, Lowa Mountain Expert, and most recently, the Scarpa Phantom Guide.


Originally Posted By: chas
and WHY do you own SO many pairs of boots?


Gear whore?

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#56771 - 02/23/11 01:54 PM Re: Scarpa Phantom Guide Boot [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
yeah, but if you think of an average of $400 a boot thats $2400 in boots. Hell, I can spend 1 month in Peru, for 2 summers comfortably for that money, or a treip to Nepal to climb a mountain like Kasum Kangaru..... and some of those boots are going for more like 500 or $600.



Edited by Chas (02/23/11 01:58 PM)

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#56773 - 02/23/11 02:34 PM Re: Scarpa Phantom Guide Boot [Re: Chas]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I've got feet that are difficult to fit (appropos for a foot and ankle doc, eh?) and have a couple pair of boots at home that were used a few times before I realized they just weren't going to cut it. So far, LS Nepals are the best I've found for me, but might have to try a pair of Phantom Guides. Hmm, maybe I've found a collector who might be looking for a couple more, slightly used models?!

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#56789 - 02/26/11 10:01 PM Re: Scarpa Phantom Guide Boot [Re: Adrian]
tradjunkie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 364
I have a pair of the predecessor, the Phantom Lite, and I think most of the main points will hold for the new version as the construction and materials are very similar.
1) incredibly comfortable and hike well. crampon fit is no worse than any other rigid boot. i've hiked in some REALLY long approaches in them and even a Presi traverse - way better than rigid plastic boots...or my full shank leathers. they also climb great. Tightening the very bottom of the boot is tricky in the field because you really have to yank the outer liner down to get at the bottom laces, but the lacing is wonderful so you can get it tightened well by pulling just on the middle laces.
2) the boots and gaiter work well and keep feet dry and warm - the gaiter has enough room to fit any bulky bottom seam of a goretex pant. the zipper is very waterproof and manageable in all conditions. I've had the uppers coated in snow all day long and stayed DRY. (On the other hand, see the next point...)
3) the fabric is abrasion resistant but is NOT super durable. It is very easy to fray this stuff even without sticking your feet into chimneys. I've done many a climb with them, but it shows. Seam Grip is very necessary to maintain the waterproofing. These boots will NOT last you a lifetime - considering the cost, be VERY aware of this. It also means you run a decent risk of losing the waterproofness during a climb (eg putting a hole in with the other crampon, or abrading the fabric on rock).
4) because the boots are so soft and comfortable, strapping crampons (or snowshoes) tightly will be felt in the foot. I've never had a problem with this, but just be aware of it - esp if you don't use step-in crampons.
5) I have limited experience using them on multi-day trips but my experience has been that you can dry them well enough, if not perfectly, in your bag, if you have to. They are soft enough not to be a major annoyance in the bag, though having both can be a bit much esp if you also have a water bottle and gas canisters and and and.

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#56792 - 02/27/11 06:27 AM Re: Scarpa Phantom Guide Boot [Re: Chas]
mrhutt Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/02/07
Posts: 51
Loc: NJ
Originally Posted By: Chas
and WHY do you own SO many pairs of boots?



I don't. You misread my post. I said "I have owned..."

My first season I bought the Mad Rock Alpinists trying to go cheap. They were satisfactory and climbed surprisingly well, but didn't fit me quite right and left my feet really sore at the end of the day. Once I knew I was going to stick with ice climbing, I just sat around waiting to find unbeatable deals on all those boots and would order them in my size over March-September of the following summer. I bought em, took them out for a day hike, front pointed in them on an old sheet of plywood, and one by one, realized I didn't like each pair until I wound up with a pair of Nepals. The Nepals fit better than the rest, but were still uncomfortable on the top of my foot. Regardless, I used them, liked them, and climbed on them.

Fast forward to this past November... found a great deal on the Phantom Guides so I ordered them just to give them a shot and they were perfect. I sold my Nepals and only own one pair of boots. I just kept on rolling the money from boot to boot over the course of many months until I found something that worked. I wasn't in a rush and waited until I found unbeatable deals. I even made a couple dollars once or twice... I got the Lowas for $100 brand new and sold them for $160.


Edited by mrhutt (02/27/11 06:31 AM)

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