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#56921 - 03/19/11 04:36 AM Laughing Man loose flake
kmc2 Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/02/08
Posts: 18
I hate to take the spirit of adventure away from anyones experience, but thought I should share this anyway. I climbing Laughing Man today, and the left facing flake ~10-15' off of the ground, prior to the roof, seemed to be very loose. The flake shifted and creaked a bit as I was pulling off/out on the hold to gain the horizontal below the large roof. This may be old news or common knowledge, but I have never experienced this w/ this particular feature before. If your climbing this route, exercise caution navigating around this hold, when this thing goes its going to be a really bad day for both climber and belayer.

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#56923 - 03/19/11 12:42 PM Re: Laughing Man loose flake [Re: kmc2]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
No laughing matter!

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#56924 - 03/19/11 06:40 PM Re: Laughing Man loose flake [Re: chip]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Seems like that's new. I don't remember anything feeling that loose on that route before.

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#56935 - 03/21/11 08:38 PM Re: Laughing Man loose flake [Re: RangerRob]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 224
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
LM need more gang top-ropers to pull that one off. Maybe an easily accessed bolted anchor will expedite geological mass wasting.

DL

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#56936 - 03/21/11 08:46 PM Re: Laughing Man loose flake [Re: Lucander]
fotovult Offline
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 136
Loc: ny
What are you saying - the LM fixed anchor is <sarcasm> completely bomber </sarcasm>

Then again it is a perfectly protected 5.11 that most do as a 5.10 anyway...
_________________________
www.chrisvultaggio.com

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#56937 - 03/21/11 08:57 PM Re: Laughing Man loose flake [Re: fotovult]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
We did it thinking it was a 5.10. Kind of a one move wonder, and not that wonderful. Add in a totally shitty fixed anchor, and it gets right up there on the list for climbs never to repeat.

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#56938 - 03/21/11 10:29 PM Re: Laughing Man loose flake [Re: RangerRob]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 224
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
I have not been on LM in years, what's the anchor (1) have in it, (2) need replaced, and (3) need new? Just asking for posterity's sake in case any good sams decide to get on it.

Off topic, but someone cleaned and replaced a bunch of webbing recently on the Rusty Trifle rap tree and the Last Frontier chockstone.

DL

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#56940 - 03/22/11 01:56 PM Re: Laughing Man loose flake [Re: Lucander]
fotovult Offline
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 136
Loc: ny
I was on it mid-last year, but I recall the anchor being some old tat and a few fixed mank pieces. It's easy to back up with a few small cams, but not so inspiring for whomever is rapping off.

Good to hear about Last Frontier, that one was in definite need. Another one for contention is Comedy - I think it was one solid nut for the rap anchor... I'll hopefully be up for checking that one out soon and see about getting something else in there.
_________________________
www.chrisvultaggio.com

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#56948 - 03/23/11 03:25 AM Re: Laughing Man loose flake [Re: fotovult]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
I had fixed up the Comedy anchor with some nuts and new runners and quick link, but that was probably 5 years ago and that sits in run off so it probably deteriorates pretty quickly.

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#56949 - 03/23/11 04:16 PM Re: Laughing Man loose flake [Re: Coppertone]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 224
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Comedy now has a nice new red sling on the anchor. The bail nut isn't there any more...

DL

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