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#64701 - 05/06/12 12:15 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
How about the the pin on Fat City Direct?

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#64702 - 05/06/12 04:31 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Mike Rawdon]
jhurwitz Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/04/12
Posts: 14
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
No Picnic can be walked off in less than a minute. (Just sayin')
Mike, agreed! Unfortunately, that didn't seem to stop people from rapping off of those two trees during the times when that anchor was removed. I was paying attention and noticing fresh rope marks before I replaced the slings(maybe 4 or 5 times over a few years). Then, after consulting Frank, I put up the cable.

FWIW - I'm probably gonna replace that 1/4" cable with a 3/8" in the next month. Gonna make the ends a bit longer and wrap them with duct tape as well.

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#64703 - 05/06/12 04:33 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Coppertone]
jhurwitz Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/04/12
Posts: 14
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Originally Posted By: Coppertone
How about the the pin on Fat City Direct?


Can the pin be replaced with something better? Is there gear there somewhere that I missed? I haven't been on it in over a year and don't remember it's condition except to say that I was less than thrilled to clip it! wink

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#64705 - 05/06/12 05:25 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: jhurwitz]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2471
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I haven't been up there recently. I remember the pin as being a small angle, which means that a cam might fit in there if there is enough room for it. Probably a C3, not an Alien.

Of course, that would return the difficulty of the pitch to its original state at the FFA, when Gary Brown had to hang there and place the pin (no, it was not placed with aid).

The idea of returning the climb to the state of the FFA is probably not going to appeal. I think a decent pin can be placed there, provided one can extract the current resident without breaking it off.

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#64709 - 05/06/12 02:15 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
[quote=rg@ofmc
The idea of returning the climb to the state of the FFA is probably not going to appeal. I think a decent pin can be placed there, provided one can extract the current resident without breaking it off.

[/quote]

Pin or gear, either would be good. At least you would have something you could rely on with confidence as opposed to hopping the old pin won't break. Unfortunately a very small minority of our community actually can competantly remove and replace pitons.

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#64712 - 05/07/12 01:10 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Coppertone]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 226
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Check the OP, can this thread go back to discussing the STATUS of anchors?

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#64716 - 05/07/12 02:31 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: jhurwitz]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Originally Posted By: jhurwitz
Another concern that I have is the replacement of individual pitons like the ones on Classic that should be replaced very soon. The second pin on that route is a cause for concern as I question whether it can be banged out without breaking the exposed section completely off. Thoughts?


I've been very concerned about that 2nd pin on Classic for a long time. I can bend it with my fingers. It's decoration-only by now, and given that Classic is a very popular moderate, should be a high priority. That pin protects against groundfall from a close-to-the-grade move, and protects seconds from a swing into blocks as they work out the first move.

Thoughts, though? I am also very concerned that it will break off in situ. There is no gear there. A bolt would be just ... heresy and cringeworthy. That's the extent of my deep thoughts.

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#64718 - 05/07/12 03:03 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Julie]
chip Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Funkness time for that mank.

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#64723 - 05/07/12 04:15 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: chip]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2471
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Chip is right, funking gives the best hope of not breaking the pin off and rendering the crack useless. I'd do it myself but I'm hobbled for a few months with a ruptured ACL repair.

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#64724 - 05/07/12 04:21 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
So sorry to hear that, RG!

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