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#57110 - 04/12/11 06:01 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: whatthegunks]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
The comment "How long would it take before the cliff top looked like the cliff base" ignores the fact that many climbers don't go to the top of the cliff, non-climbers, by and large, don't go to the top of the cliff, and even climbers, by and large, don't linger at the top of the cliff eating lunch, hanging out while other people climb, read books, play with their dogs, etc.

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#57111 - 04/12/11 06:20 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Steven Cherry]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
All those commas, but no terminal period?

;-)

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#57114 - 04/12/11 08:37 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Julie]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Harvest Moon anchor no longer exists, the tree tipped over. Retreating from this climb (as well as for Honky Tonk Woman) now requires rappelling Hang Ten. Let's see how long that tree lasts.

DL

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#57115 - 04/12/11 08:38 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
Kent Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/21/00
Posts: 1038
Loc: The Bayards
Originally Posted By: Lucander
Criss Cross Direct:

Use caution, as of last weekend the pitons were missing from the anchor, as were a few of the nuts, links, a biner, and a new coredellette. The remaining anchor is found small nuts "equalized" with a single quick link.

I kind of like an anchor there. Following the first move (crux) with 100 feet of rope out and a belayer out of eyesight would suck, and the route dramatically changes its nature above the "anchor." 5.8 R face climbing leads to a 5.10a exit move through a wild roof. Exhilarating, but a very different feel...

D. Lucander


Falling from the 5.8 R section onto that anchor would be very very bad. It's a great pitch nonetheless with a very exciting exit.

There is a way to protect the second at the close to the ground crux, even if the leader is at the top, if anyone wants to talk gear. It's a bit convoluted but perhaps better than risking falling on that lousy mid climb anchor. It works for protecting the second on P1 if stringing the first two pitches of Enduroman together too. It's pretty simple really.


Edited by Kent (04/12/11 08:45 PM)

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#57121 - 04/13/11 01:53 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Kent]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2677
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Nothing wrong with a little thread drift, Kent. What is your solution?

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#57127 - 04/13/11 10:49 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Kent]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
Originally Posted By: Kent
Falling from the 5.8 R section onto that anchor would be very very bad. It's a great pitch nonetheless with a very exciting exit.


Contributing to thread drift...

I wandered onto that pitch, going too far on the p2 traverse on Broken Sling. Unable (or unwilling) to go back, I kept going up looking for gear. The exit roof looked protectable, so that's where I went and inadvertently did my first 5.10.

A possible link-up for the adventurous, I suppose. (Broken Cross?)

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#57136 - 04/14/11 01:43 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: chip]
Kent Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/21/00
Posts: 1038
Loc: The Bayards
Originally Posted By: chip
Nothing wrong with a little thread drift, Kent. What is your solution?


Drift/

First, the two climbs I mention, Criss Cross and Enduroman, are in crowded areas, and so other climbers are often hanging around waiting to climb. Recruit one.

Then the leader trails two full strength ropes. Let's call them ropes #1 and #2. Rope #1 is to lead on, and rope #2 is for rigging through a gear anchor placed at a decent rest on the first pitch. Rope #2 gets fed back down to the ground. Then the leader leads all the way to the top of pitch 2 on rope #1.

The following climber, still on the ground, ties into both ropes and climbs. Rope #1 is belayed by the leader at the top of pitch 2. Rope #2, which is effectively a top rope, is belayed by the recruit from the ground. When the following climber reaches the anchor for rope #2, the recruit is free to go and rope #2 can be dropped or trailed.

If this is done on Criss Cross the risks associated with the iffy gear at the beginning of the R section are greatly reduced and the following climber is still well protected from rope stretch and ground fall at the near ground pitch 1 crux.

If this is done on the first two pitches of Enduroman it allows the leader to follow a more elegant line, a crack that transects the Directissima traverse, rather than going up to the belay at the top of the ramp before starting pitch 2, while still protecting the following climber from rope stretch and ground fall on the close to the ground crux of pitch 1.

Another alternative is to lead straight to the top of pitch 2 and have a very strong follower, one who is very unlikely to fall at the close to the ground crux, but those two cruxes are 10a and 11c respectively. Pretty stout for most.

Drift\


Edited by Kent (04/14/11 01:45 PM)

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#57185 - 04/18/11 03:30 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Kent]
whatthegunks Offline
member

Registered: 05/09/09
Posts: 136
Loc: High Falls, NY
The anchor on Tequila/PT Call Home is good for another couple of years now. Thinking of scrapping the tat under the roof on PT. Route looks very cool. Beta?

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#57194 - 04/19/11 02:15 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: whatthegunks]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
The Laughing Man anchor (commonly used as a mid-way rappel line from Welcome to the Gunks, Asphodel, and Credibility Gap) was beefed up with a surprisingly good nut. There's still lots of manky tat, good tat, and rusty pitons that I have no idea how to replace comprising that anchor. Presently, it has two-three pitons, two good nuts, and a crusty pink tricam.

DL

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#57227 - 04/22/11 03:31 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
cfrac Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 462
Just left of the first major roof of Ursula & Nose Drops is a fixed anchor (same height as the bottom of the Bonnies Roof crux). Does anyone know what it's for? I'm pretty sure it's left of the Nose Drop crux and right of Knockout Drops if I'm reading Gray Dick correctly. The climbing is 5.easierthan9 and the climbing is nice. The anchor is in so-so rock and consists of one large nut, a rusty angle, and an angle/leeperZ stack that is scary to look at.

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