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#57289 - 04/29/11 04:23 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Jeff D.]
Lucander Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 226
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
I've always belayed at SOEO anchor (backed up with a few pieces), then had my second finish the "pitch" above. This lets me see my partner on those slippery opening moves, have communication while they are under the roof, and avoid knocking rubble down.

D. Lucander

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#57291 - 04/29/11 06:31 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Jeff D.]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2470
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I haven't seen the recent reinforcement, but I haven't trusted that anchor for years and would never rap off it. BITD, we just used to unrope there and solo down Easy O, but those days are long past...

I agree that traffic in the gully at the top is likely to pepper the cliff with rockfall and so a legitimate argument could be made for an anchor there to keep the riff-raff off the top.

What I've done for several years, given that few of my partners will go down Easy O unroped, is to do the 5.easy traverse right and up to the ledge above City Lights/Pas de Deux and either rap from the bolts there if it is clear below, or otherwise continue traversing across that ledge to the bolts located above the midpoint of the Maria traverse and rappel from there.

The availability of this option strikes me as an excellent reason not to have a fixed anchor above Son of Easy O, but the trouble is that too many people, in the absence of an anchor right in front of their eyes, will just go on to the rubble festival above.

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#57292 - 04/29/11 06:47 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
tradjunkie Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 365
I second RG's suggestion to exit right, though one can walk off if City Lights is busy...
The issue is how to get the nonreaders of this forum to do so, especially the first-time or infrequent climbers - or the climbers of Easy O itself, who I think are the real concern.

Unless the rubble were somehow stabilized - but it's the climber traffic that has destabilized it.

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#57294 - 04/29/11 09:43 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: tradjunkie]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
I am certainly one guilty of using that anchor and never go the extra 30 ft to the due the danger of knock down debris no matter how careful you are. Since I usually lead that pitch and back up that anchor and usually rap first when it backed up and leave my second to clean the anchor and rap.

If climbing that with Rich I am sure that he would make me down climb but we have not had the please of doing Son of Easy O together as of yet.

I am usually one for chopping convenience anchors as they serve no purpose, but this one is a little more than convenience, protecting everyone below from the ariel assault that you takes place if one goes all the way to the top.

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#57307 - 05/02/11 01:16 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Coppertone]
Lucander Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 226
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Cut a bunch of old manky sun bleached tat off of No Recollection and replaced it with a nice drab colored length of 1" tubular. That said, I will not comment ont eh quality of the blocks this anchor is slung around...yikes!

Headless Horseman could use some work, I was out of webbing by the time I got there. Same could be said for Silly Chimney.

d. lucander

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#57308 - 05/02/11 03:23 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2470
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
People rap down Silly Chimney now?

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#57310 - 05/02/11 05:31 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
tradjunkie Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 365
Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
People rap down Silly Chimney now?


Says the man who wears belay gloves just in case that unexpected factor 2 fall happens smile

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#57311 - 05/02/11 09:24 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: tradjunkie]
Lucander Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 226
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Silly Chimney is a great way down, 1 rappel with 1 rope and you're on the ground. Useful for getting off everything from Lichen 40 Winks, Bonnie's, Yellow Wall area, and even Double Crack.

dl

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#57314 - 05/02/11 01:21 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: tradjunkie]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2470
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Originally Posted By: tradjunkie
Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
People rap down Silly Chimney now?


Says the man who wears belay gloves just in case that unexpected factor 2 fall happens smile


But I take them off to climb down Silly Chimney.

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#57317 - 05/02/11 01:47 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
ianmanger Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
I am occasionally partial to the brief but energetic suffering on Last Frontier. I doubt many others are but there is a nest o'crap at the anchor at the exit that could use a do-over from the anchor fairy. I've added slings, but some nice new webbing would make the place look positively inviting. btw, anyone done the upper pitches? Looked a little lichen-encrusted, purportedly 5.8 R/X?

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