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#57335 - 05/03/11 12:28 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: ianmanger]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 223
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Ian,
Have you been on Last Frontier recently? About a month ago, I replaced a bunch of webbing. There was so much mank, I could hardly fit a carabiner around the anchor. Cut much of it off, added a new piece of 1" tubular.

D. L.

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#57336 - 05/03/11 01:07 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Not this season. Thanks for this.
Originally Posted By: Lucander
Ian,
Have you been on Last Frontier recently? About a month ago, I replaced a bunch of webbing. There was so much mank, I could hardly fit a carabiner around the anchor. Cut much of it off, added a new piece of 1" tubular.

D. L.

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#57337 - 05/03/11 02:49 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: ianmanger]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2776
Loc: Gardiner, NY
it's not a rappel anchor but how about the crux bolt on wonderland? will it ever be replaced? sente got new bolts but not the one important bolt on wonderland? it's seemed a bit questionable to me for years.

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#57338 - 05/03/11 03:18 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: phlan]
fotovult Online   content
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 126
Loc: ny
DL - thanks for the work amigo, I know you've been out there this season replacing some tat with more solid anchors.
_________________________
www.chrisvultaggio.com

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#57345 - 05/04/11 12:58 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: phlan]
BrianRI Offline
newbie

Registered: 06/10/05
Posts: 29
I second phlan about the bolt on Wonderland. I've mentioned this in a previous thread on anchors/bolts. It looks like a homemade hanger and is rusty.

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#57346 - 05/04/11 03:04 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: BrianRI]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
First time I did Wonderland I did it from way down at the bottom, which was my first 5.9, and my first R rated route. I was VERY happy to clip that bolt!

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#57353 - 05/05/11 06:47 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: RangerRob]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
First time I did Wonderland I did it from way down at the bottom, which was my first 5.9, and my first R rated route. I was VERY happy to clip that bolt!


how else do people do it?

(i'm guessing they traverse in from wisecrack???)

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#57355 - 05/05/11 02:06 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: schwortz]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Yeah I guess the normal route traverses in from the left and is 5.8 and not R

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#57420 - 05/12/11 03:46 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: RangerRob]
KathyS Offline
member

Registered: 01/10/08
Posts: 190
Loc: NY, USA
What's up with the new steel cable rap station at the top of Betty? Strange arrangement with frayed wire ends ready to poke anyone attempting to use it. We walked off, as usual, and did not use it.

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#57422 - 05/12/11 06:07 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: KathyS]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2082
Loc: SoCal
Kathy, I wondered the same a few weeks ago (and walked off as usual). Next day I met a guy/guide named Jason? who was discussing anchor replacement with Paul Curran; I brought up the new Betty wires, and Paul said it was a "french weave" and is safe. Jason said he knew who'd been installing those, and intended to have a word with him.

I try to keep an eye on the Urusla anchor, but haven't been up there yet this year. Anyone?

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