I forget the name of the variation that goes straight up the pillar and meets at the ledge on first pitch of Red Pillar. I thought it was a diiferent climb and that the real route goes up the corner to the right, but I've been wrong before. Anyway, the part straight up the center of the pillar was PG at best (felt much more R), often with aid sized micro cams protecting the next 10-12 feet of climbing while the hand holds were rounded and loose gritty/dirty. Not worth a repeat for me. I thought the section from the ledge up was quite nice, especially when I could place gear that might actually hold a fall.

^^^ Hahaha... yeah, that stretch above the ledge is definitely not ideal leading. The bolt/piton near the start off the ledge buys a false sense of security since the next few moves are unprotected, and by time you reach your next piece a fall at that moment would result in hitting the ledge/ground. Thankfully I climb stronger than I lead, but I can't imagine someone who only leads 5.5 feeling all warm and fuzzy about that section of the climb.

Sorry if I wasn't clear, the bit above the ledge was much more straight forward and fun for me.

Discovering the Gunks...

Went to Bonticou proper on Sunday - not another climber in sight - completely quiet, we had the place to ourselves. Did two great climbs on crips rock.

Awesome outing... a half hour hike from the parking lot.

I was following, just adding that the section above the ledge had similar qualities for me (after what you describe, it might have been a welcome respite!).

It's important to mention as I wouldn't want anyone to think this was a safest-in-the-gunks suggestion.

Climbed the first pitch Wop Stop this weekend just to the left of Moonlight. It will never be a super popular climb (some moves above a good small RP and an ok purple c3). For those solid at 5.6 its got some really fantastic incut holds up on the face (and is getting close to 150ft too).