I'm sort of stuck in this wierd place right now with my climbing in that my lead level is my toprope level, and I usually wind up trying to push my lead level a little further when I go out. The result is that I usually wind up scaring the bejesus out of myself most times.

While I'm game for a little fear as much as the next guy, it is nice to go out once in a while and just climb without having a near death experience. That being said, I'm kind of tired of doing the same old moderates year after year....Yellow Ridge, Son of Easy O, Limelight, Birdland...the list goes on and on.

Las year I started making a rule for myself. Every time I go out I have to do something new, or something hard for me. Doing the new stuff has been pretty rewarding I have to say. There is a wealth of good clmbing out there on those no star routes, if you enjoy a bit of dirt and uncertainty.

The other day we foraged up Lonely Challenge in the Nears. I had done the first pitch previously and found it to be quite a good 5.5 lead. Clean, solid, and some fun moves with decent gear for the grade. the middle of the route is loose and dirty, but with just a little effort at avoiding the loose stuff it isn't too bad. The last pitch finishes off with quite a wild roof system at 5.6. Again, it is clean, solid, exposed, well protected, and REALLY fun!

What other routes have people been discovering? I presume that our friendly peregrines are forcing us to broaden our Trapps experience this spring. Give us a tale of some forgotten lichened filled face.

RR The Explorer

not sure if you're asking for only routes that arent popular or are 'hidden gems' but i think of these as less popular than the "same six routes everyone always does" but still really good climbs...i've only done a few over the years that sucked - and i wont recommend those here...

have you been on all of these...probably more but my guidebook memory is fading with my time away:

nears:
far from the madding crowd
woolly clam taco
criss
crass
yellow belly (with the variations)
p2 of roseland
up yours
loose goose
swiss air
the hounds (think i toproped that one from baskerville)
farewell to arms (thats probably pretty popular actually)

trapps:
ape call
raubenheimer
bloody mary
rusty trifle or trusty rifle
splashtic
travels (maybe popular now that the gray book has the link-up listed)
nemesis
peregrine
triple bulges
raunchy (probably pretty popular)
wild horses
badfinger (awesome!)
gory thumb
city streets (sort of popular)
alley oop (also probably pretty popular)
triangle
bombs away
snowpatch (theres a harder variation somewhere up there thats pretty cool)
hawkeye
obstacle/insuhlation/alpine diversions (pretty popular)
space invaders (toprope from groovy i think...my memory says it wouldve been a tough lead)
in the groove
p2 of airy aria
tennish (never did lead that one...)
the dances
the casas (sweet)

forgot a few:

hyjeks (popular as a TR but a better lead...tico and i used to do this pitch all the time)
silhouette (probably getting more popular...deservedly so)
friends and lovers (one of my favorites...not unpopular but underappreciated)
jaccuse (blew my onsight with a toprope...nicer than never never land if you ask me...though i do like the top of never never land)
jims gem (great for passing slow parties on modern times, high e, etc)

oh...and theres always shitface

RR,
I am loathe to mention a lot of my "favorites," lest they turn into overused and under-appreciated toprope climbs replete with hammocks at the base...

DL

What Rob really meant to say is he would like to get a new list of routes together for summer prime time CHIGGER SEASON. No better way to get all wrapped up into a horrid chigger infestation then exploring new routes in the nears/trapps (beyond the well travel and less grassy ones anyway) I prefer a slow death by an acid bath myself.

Apparently I had done the second accent of a new route in the Trapps about a week ago, so there is still some to go around…

It may be RR's attempt to divert crowds to chigger-infested areas away from well traveled and grass free paths!

There's tons of good stuff in the Nears, and it isn't all chigger infested either. Dick's guidebook tells you how to find it. That's as much as I'm gonna say---Lucander has a point. Go forth and explore.

so... a thread specifically about less-climbed climbs meant for the five people that visit gunks.com should actually be yet another chance for whining about how crowded the gunks are (big surprise) and how little adventure "everyone else" has? classy.

rangerrob, thats a great goal to set, getting on something new every time. i've been trying that too, and gotten on...

the 5.6 second pitch of pink laurel
almost pure and simple (complete with "adventurous" stacked blocks)
size matters (mini-mini-matinee roof)
sultana (bypasses crowds on the double start to maria and frog's head)
apollo theater (thats what happens when you get lost on old route)
dick's prick (yah, to get photos of 10,000. committing off the ground, though.)
shit creek

and of course, no one is ever on miss bailey, despite two stars and popular position. fun the whole way, though.

Rob, I was in a similar quandry as you not too long ago. I found the answer to my ennui at Bonticou. It was the most fun Gunks climbing I've had in YEARS. Walk along the base and climb anything that looks like a good line. Sure, someone has been there before you, but not knowing anything about the lines is a rare treat.

I agree Mike, not knowing is a great way to tet your true leading ability. I've got a hankering to staryt exploring Millbrook sans guidebook. There are plenty of lines that look good when you walk the ledge. Ii have to be willing to leave some gear though, which is the only downside to climbing that way.

Artisan, I am one of those who has never done Miss Bailey. It' on the instant watch cue now! The rest on your list I think I've done

thats what monday mornings are for - cleaning up all the booty for your 'millbrook' rack

That is very true my friend

bump for Miss Bailey. some folks just hate chimneys. Entertaining all the way and super fun last pitch.

Got on Miss Bailey yesterday as part of a 2000+ft day - definite cool route and done easily in one pitch (as long as you back clean the gear at the roof on p1 at the top of the first chimney).

Also did Grim-Ace Face (skipped the R part of P1) - fun but loose p2 with committing crux and wild and superfun top pitch. It's 3-star but don't often see people on it.

Pitch 2 of Grim Ace Face is really more Rish than the first pitch. You can sling the big flake on the first pitch and the climbing is pretty easy. Second pitch has some harder climbing with questionable gear and questionable rock. Great 3 pitch climb though.

I really liked Lito and the Swan. Thoughtful, and fun. I have yet to see someone else on this climb, so no worries about the crowds.

ever done willy's weep direct? fantastic 5.6

loved Willy's Weep Direct! Did it when a pair from Kentucky jumped in front of us when we were going to do Funny Face. My partner and I had an awesome time on Willy's, but the KY guys got lost and hated what they did.

Karma's a bitch. :p

I agree with Mike - I really love the rock at Bonticou. The stuff I played on seemed to have much sharper and positive holds than the usual stuff at the Trapps. Beautiful white rock. Really fun. And a gorgeous setting.

Although not a zero star climb, Red Pillar was not at the top of any of my lists. Friend recommended it and the second pitch was fun fun fun. First pitch is very PG above the ledge but 5.5

I forget the name of the variation that goes straight up the pillar and meets at the ledge on first pitch of Red Pillar. I thought it was a diiferent climb and that the real route goes up the corner to the right, but I've been wrong before. Anyway, the part straight up the center of the pillar was PG at best (felt much more R), often with aid sized micro cams protecting the next 10-12 feet of climbing while the hand holds were rounded and loose gritty/dirty. Not worth a repeat for me. I thought the section from the ledge up was quite nice, especially when I could place gear that might actually hold a fall.

^^^ Hahaha... yeah, that stretch above the ledge is definitely not ideal leading. The bolt/piton near the start off the ledge buys a false sense of security since the next few moves are unprotected, and by time you reach your next piece a fall at that moment would result in hitting the ledge/ground. Thankfully I climb stronger than I lead, but I can't imagine someone who only leads 5.5 feeling all warm and fuzzy about that section of the climb.

Sorry if I wasn't clear, the bit above the ledge was much more straight forward and fun for me.

Discovering the Gunks...

Went to Bonticou proper on Sunday - not another climber in sight - completely quiet, we had the place to ourselves. Did two great climbs on crips rock.

Awesome outing... a half hour hike from the parking lot.

I was following, just adding that the section above the ledge had similar qualities for me (after what you describe, it might have been a welcome respite!).

It's important to mention as I wouldn't want anyone to think this was a safest-in-the-gunks suggestion.

Climbed the first pitch Wop Stop this weekend just to the left of Moonlight. It will never be a super popular climb (some moves above a good small RP and an ok purple c3). For those solid at 5.6 its got some really fantastic incut holds up on the face (and is getting close to 150ft too).