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#56950 - 03/23/11 04:19 PM Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 224
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Post your updates on the status of anchors on this thread. Be as specific as possible as to what anchors may need (ie: broken medium nut and rotten sling on p. 2 anchor of Erect Direction).

As New York is notoriously litigious, these are non-binding comments - simply observations about what the apparent status of anchors are and reports of hearsay as to what has been done to anchors.

DL

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#56951 - 03/23/11 06:37 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I think that is a good example of an anchor that ought to be cleaned. Anyone capable of climbing that route is capable of setting up their own anchor there. But really, a hanging belay half-way up a free pitch is itself wrong and is in this case a distant relic of the days when the climb was aided.

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#56977 - 03/30/11 08:18 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
Coryred797 Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/29/09
Posts: 17
What happened to the anchor on the ledge of Dennis, Belly roll? Used to be a rap anchor there, none there now.

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#57019 - 04/03/11 09:23 PM Re: Erect Direction hanging belay [Re: rg@ofmc]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
The fixed anchor at the hanging belay has been removed. There still remains a nest of two nuts connected by a small, rusty twist link. One of them will have to be drilled out to be cleaned. behind that is another nut with a broken wire, which cannot be cleaned until the first one is cleaned. Everything else is gone. Plenty of room to build a gear anchor if you wish to break it up into two pitches.

RR

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#57033 - 04/05/11 07:22 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Coryred797]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
Originally Posted By: Coryred797
What happened to the anchor on the ledge of Dennis, Belly roll? Used to be a rap anchor there, none there now.


why would you need an anchor on that ledge at all? you could build a hundred gear anchors up there...theres a tree off left...you can climb both climbs in less than a ropelength...and walking off from there is a far better option than rapping

its been a while so i dont know if anyone has cleaned it up but i'd wanted to go clean up the anchor on criss cross direct before i left the gunks but never got to that one...that thing was/is a mess...it could obviously be chopped but people rarely seem to climb the upper part of the route so at the very least the sling nest can be swapped out for chain and quicklinks (the chain can be used to equalize the pins provided they're still good)

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#57034 - 04/05/11 12:36 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: schwortz]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Or just take it out completely and encourage people to do the entire route in one pitch. It's almost exactly 100' to the top, and the upper part is 5.8. I would wager doing it in one pitch is safer than belaying from that anchor anyway...there isn't a whole lot of gear to start the upper section.

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#57035 - 04/05/11 01:45 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: RangerRob]
whatthegunks Offline
member

Registered: 05/09/09
Posts: 135
Loc: High Falls, NY
I added a nut/sling/biner to anchor just right of Tequila Mockingbird on Sunday. The anchor is above the roof on PT Call Home and is still not great, one very rusty pin, one pretty rusty pin and a .5 tri cam whose sling is white with rigor-mortis. There's old tat combing, a newer sling draped through rings from pin to pin and my nut and sling. I did not have my knife else I'd have made it right.

We rapped that route three times after TM, Dry Martini and then again after doing Land's End (which has a terrible P1 anchor). On the last time down we passed a party with leader thirty feet above belayer on P2 of TM. It was crazy to see that their "anchor" was primarily a .25 (black) tri-cam with an oh by the way back up to one of the pins. The leader went about fifteen feet before placing a piece above the belay, risking a thirty plus foot factor two fall onto a single inadequate anchor point that would almost certainly have failed in turn shock loading the pin which had a good foot or more of slack between it and belayer. YIKES!

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#57036 - 04/05/11 06:24 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: RangerRob]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Or just take it out completely and encourage people to do the entire route in one pitch. It's almost exactly 100' to the top, and the upper part is 5.8. I would wager doing it in one pitch is safer than belaying from that anchor anyway...there isn't a whole lot of gear to start the upper section.


yeah. i think you're right and it would make it a nicer route to go to the top in one.

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#57047 - 04/06/11 03:18 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: schwortz]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 224
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
What the Gunks: Nice work on that rap line...I hate using that thing. I'd lover my second from the GT to avoid both of us having to use it.

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#57048 - 04/06/11 03:21 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 224
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Criss Cross Direct:

Use caution, as of last weekend the pitons were missing from the anchor, as were a few of the nuts, links, a biner, and a new coredellette. The remaining anchor is found small nuts "equalized" with a single quick link.

I kind of like an anchor there. Following the first move (crux) with 100 feet of rope out and a belayer out of eyesight would suck, and the route dramatically changes its nature above the "anchor." 5.8 R face climbing leads to a 5.10a exit move through a wild roof. Exhilarating, but a very different feel...

D. Lucander

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