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#65409 - 06/11/12 01:16 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
fotovult Online   content
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 136
Loc: ny
Was up on erect direction this weekend - been a while but someone clipped all the tat but left a bunch of the clipped nuts where most build the hanging belay. A few were left unclipped but they're hard to assess - bit of a mess under there with a bunch of pointy rusted wires jabbing at you.

It's possible to build an anchor with a few small pieces, but if anyone has the urge to beat on rusted metal that's a good place to start.
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#65437 - 06/12/12 02:40 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: fotovult]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 224
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
That's a bummer about the disappearance. The anchor vanished last year, but it was replaced with 2 equalized fixed nuts as of the springtime.

DL

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#65439 - 06/12/12 03:46 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
That anchor deserves to stay vanished. It is a relic of the days when ED was an aid climb, and stopping there is just taking a very extended hang in the midst of the pitch.

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#66475 - 09/03/12 12:56 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
curmudgeon Online   content
addict

Registered: 10/27/10
Posts: 464
The Minty tree anchor on the top of the cliff has only one doubled sling. The knot wasn't finished properly and there is a twist in the webbing. The tail on one side is much shorter than the other which might be evidence of slippage. A second piece of webbing might be a welcome addition. eek


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#66477 - 09/04/12 03:46 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: curmudgeon]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
A water knot is a poor choice for rap slings precisely because the ends can work into the knot under repeated loading. That knot is in a dangerous state---it should either be retied with a double fisherman's knot or, if there isn't enough webbing for that, removed and replaced with something better.

Tied like that it's a booby-trap, and belongs in a textbook on what not to rap off.

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#66609 - 09/26/12 01:57 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 224
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
FYI - the "anchor" atop Wisecrack does not exist - the best option is to place some directionals and belay at the Middle Earth tree.

DL

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#66626 - 09/27/12 01:22 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: curmudgeon]
kenr Offline
newbie

Registered: 10/05/10
Posts: 36
Originally Posted By: curmudgeon
The Minty tree anchor on the top of the cliff has only one doubled sling. The knot wasn't finished properly ...

But there's little point in climbing to the top of cliff on Minty unless you intend to descend by walking off and later scrambling.

If you want to rappel after climbing (the worthshile sections of) Minty, just stop at the GT ledge.

Ken

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#66630 - 09/27/12 04:07 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: kenr]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Originally Posted By: kenr
Originally Posted By: curmudgeon
The Minty tree anchor on the top of the cliff has only one doubled sling. The knot wasn't finished properly ...

But there's little point in climbing to the top of cliff on Minty unless you intend to descend by walking off and later scrambling.

If you want to rappel after climbing (the worthshile sections of) Minty, just stop at the GT ledge.

Ken

Perhaps you missed the fun overhang at the top of the cliff off of the GT? That is plenty fun whether you are a 5.3 or 5.10 climber, not sure why you would skip that.

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#66634 - 09/27/12 02:36 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Coppertone]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Originally Posted By: Coppertone
Originally Posted By: kenr
Originally Posted By: curmudgeon
The Minty tree anchor on the top of the cliff has only one doubled sling. The knot wasn't finished properly ...

But there's little point in climbing to the top of cliff on Minty unless you intend to descend by walking off and later scrambling.

If you want to rappel after climbing (the worthshile sections of) Minty, just stop at the GT ledge.

Ken

Perhaps you missed the fun overhang at the top of the cliff off of the GT? That is plenty fun whether you are a 5.3 or 5.10 climber, not sure why you would skip that.

+1
The top pitch of Minty is great! There's also a desperate (for its grade) 5.5 overhang variation as well.

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#66637 - 09/27/12 09:35 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: retroscree]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I cannot fathom why the final pitch options for Minty are any less "worthwile" than the pitches below. The rock is solid and clean and the overhang variation is impressive for the grade.

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