So...in sum:

Last Frontier's lower anchor is gone...again. Instead of the chockstone, the tree higher up after much easier climbing has a "new" anchor.

Obnoxious RMC/Jame anchor is alive and well

Falled on Account of Strain could use a little work (new webbing, remove old nut, add new nut)

Bring a knife up Bonnie's Roof

DL

If anyone does Dry Heaves they should also bring a knife and some webbing.. that anchor was scary but it was dark and late when we got off so we just backed up the first rap and trusted it enough for a second.

Good on you for doing the second pitch, Jake. I think that anchor is scary because most people just do the first pitch of Alley Oop and Dry Heaves to the bolts. I am as guilty as anyone.

Bolts? we didn't see any bolts. perhaps that is why it was such a shitty anchor. like i said... it was dark. leader didnt have headlamp on lead.. i followed poorly with a headlamp on P1.. slipped on the traverse when a foot blew off the smears :P got past the roofs and traversed left to the tree with slings. only did P1.

nevermind then go to the bolts not the shitty tree anchor.

Oh, yeah, use the bolts next time! Maybe you used an anchor above Balrog/Bullfrog?

Won't be a next time for me... it has no appeal to me at all.

must have been Balrog..we went right over that big roof on the way down.

This is a really good question, about one of the most visually apparent anchors out there.

JakeDatc - sounds like you hit the Bullfrog anchor, as Balrog is waaaaaaaaay left of Dry Heaves. Rapping the Bullfrog roof instead of Dry Heaves sounds about right. If you're interested, it goes at 5.12a and would be one of the most popular routes at a crag like Waimea.

All the second and third pitches of Alley Oop, Cakewalk, and Dry Heaves have little appeal. Compounding the low-angle, dirty, easy climbing is a descent that is best done by walking the cliff top all the way right to the Madame G rap. I guess they're good if you're looking for solitude on a busy weekend.

Sorry for the thread drift...

Quite the nest on Bonnie's Roof 12/3. The only newish looking thing was the nut with dark yellow cord on the right. The pin seemed pretty snug but old. I followed the wild direct finish which I hadn't done in twenty years. What a blast! I could not believe how empty the cliffs were on a sunny nice weekend day.

Yea, I don't see why the threaded junk is necessary. There is the Pin and multiple cam placements up there. slings and the cord should get tossed imo all looks like shit.