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#57714 - 05/30/11 03:02 PM Info on some lesser known routes
NYZoo Offline
newbie

Registered: 07/06/08
Posts: 45
Loc: Gunks
I'm hoping some of you that have been around a while may be able to give me some info on a few routes that are a bit lesser known. Since these may be in areas that are not documented and you don't want to post up about them could you send me a PM.
A friend of mine and I got the rope up Aphrodite in Triple Right yesterday, it took both of our efforts to get the rope up this thing ground up. Anyone know what the grade is?

Other routes I would like to be able to find are:
Sinus Drip, Marooned, Dark Shadows, Whitness Protection Program.

Other info:
There are two routes to the left of Aphrodite through the big roof, anyone know what they are and how hard they are?
Up behind the Cybernetic block on the cliff band there is a steep dihedral about half way up, it is very clean and does look awesome, anyone know what route this is...

Thx for your help....

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#57790 - 06/06/11 12:19 PM Re: Info on some lesser known routes [Re: NYZoo]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3629
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Zoo, I know some of the routes you're talking about, but I'm in the same boat as you. I have no idea how hard they actually are. These are some out of the way crags that not a lot of people climb on. Dark Shadows in particular has turned into a project of mine...have you been on it? Pushing a line straight up the headwall where the regular route skips out left is turning out to be way hard for me, but safe as it is pretty freaking steep, with good gear before launching off for it. Unfortunately it's not a good summertime route for me, as it is very hot out there, so I'll be waiting for late fall to get back on it. Also out there to the right of Dark Shadows is supposedly one of the last big roof project in the Gunks (from what I've been told).

You can always ask Andrew at Rock and Snow. He knows a lot of those routes. Let me know if you want to head out there sometime in the fall. That cliff is stupidly hot in the summer.

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#57801 - 06/06/11 09:01 PM Re: Info on some lesser known routes [Re: RangerRob]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4158
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Zoo, I know some of the routes you're talking about, but I'm in the same boat as you. I have no idea how hard they actually are. These are some out of the way crags that not a lot of people climb on. Dark Shadows in particular has turned into a project of mine...have you been on it? Pushing a line straight up the headwall where the regular route skips out left is turning out to be way hard for me, but safe as it is pretty freaking steep, with good gear before launching off for it. Unfortunately it's not a good summertime route for me, as it is very hot out there, so I'll be waiting for late fall to get back on it. Also out there to the right of Dark Shadows is supposedly one of the last big roof project in the Gunks (from what I've been told).

You can always ask Andrew at Rock and Snow. He knows a lot of those routes. Let me know if you want to head out there sometime in the fall. That cliff is stupidly hot in the summer.


Has anyone climbed the 30 ft roof crack (hands/fists/stacks) at Lost City? That's my pack there at the far end.


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#57811 - 06/07/11 12:14 PM Re: Info on some lesser known routes [Re: Mike Rawdon]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3629
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Probably, but what's the difference if anyone has climbed it. The question is have YOU climbed it?

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#57894 - 06/10/11 02:39 AM Re: Info on some lesser known routes [Re: RangerRob]
sknowlton Offline
newbie

Registered: 01/15/07
Posts: 28
Loc: Nyack NY
+1
_________________________
Steve K

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#57899 - 06/10/11 04:20 PM Re: Info on some lesser known routes [Re: sknowlton]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4158
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Well, if it hasn't been climbed, then there's more than one "last roof problem" at the Gunks. That's all I was saying.

And no, I haven't done it. Something about dropping 8 ft onto my back on a boulder pile...

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#57942 - 06/13/11 02:48 AM Re: Info on some lesser known routes [Re: Mike Rawdon]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3629
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Ahh....yes I see your point now, and a good one it is. As I said, that wasn't my claim, but what was told to me by someone who I had gone out there with.

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#57944 - 06/13/11 10:51 AM Re: Info on some lesser known routes [Re: RangerRob]
NYZoo Offline
newbie

Registered: 07/06/08
Posts: 45
Loc: Gunks
Is that the roof crack that's below Gold Streaks? If it is I was told that Romano led it when I asked around about it....

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#57950 - 06/13/11 04:31 PM Re: Info on some lesser known routes [Re: NYZoo]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4158
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: NYZoo
Is that the roof crack that's below Gold Streaks? If it is I was told that Romano led it when I asked around about it....


Yes. And yes, he bouldered it many years ago.

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