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#57719 - 05/30/11 04:42 PM New mixed (aid+free) route at PK
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4275
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Hey all you aid climbers - I have TR'ed a fun line at Peterskill, but it needs a FA on lead, and I'm too chickenshit to aid lead the initial seam. Details here:

SLAM Dance 5.9+ C2

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#57720 - 05/30/11 08:41 PM Re: New mixed (aid+free) route at PK [Re: Mike Rawdon]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Way to be, Mike! My motto for many years has been that going home intact is the only way I can afford to keep climbing.

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#60111 - 09/12/11 02:48 PM Re: New mixed (aid+free) route at PK [Re: chip]
tls Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/24/00
Posts: 54
Looking at the photo, I think I broke a roughly head-sized chunk off trying to free a small roof in that vicinity about 10 years ago. How is the rock quality?

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#60112 - 09/12/11 04:23 PM Re: New mixed (aid+free) route at PK [Re: tls]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4275
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Everything I touched was solid and tight. That doesn't preclude the possibiliity of a loose head-size block having once been wedged in somewhere. Lots of small roofs to play on in PK's eastern end.

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#60119 - 09/12/11 05:56 PM Re: New mixed (aid+free) route at PK [Re: Mike Rawdon]
yellowhouse Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/19/07
Posts: 12
Loc: NYC
I had led this with my partner Marian in April 2011.

Admittedly, I dogged it at what I thought was the crux (going of the roof at the seam) but it was still a very cool, if scary line.

I was too scared to lead the initial seam too, so I led up from the top of the blocks just to the right, and climbed diagonally up right to the top of the pointed boulder, up the scary slab, then hard left to the ceiling/seam. Definitely rated X given the instant exposure due to the hole below , I do not recommend it if you're not ready for that kind of head game. I also had mega rope drag on the right corner of the ceiling after traversing to the left to the seam. Made for interesting climbing going over the second roof to the Pine Tree above.

If only it made sense to lead up from the seam directly under the roof, this would be amazing line. I called it 'Time for Therapy' 5.10b/c X. Slam Dance is cool too.


Edited by yellowhouse (09/12/11 05:58 PM)

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#60126 - 09/13/11 01:26 AM Re: New mixed (aid+free) route at PK [Re: yellowhouse]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4275
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Yellow, thanks for that info. In the process of playing in there, my partner and I TR'ed that unprotected slab, a bit closer to the seam than what you describe i.e. we weren't as far right as the pointed boulder, and the traverse leftwards to the seam was only 4-5 ft. We called the route 5.9+; it sounds like the steep crack felt like 10 to you (am I reading you correctly?) But we were on TR; props to you on getting the lead (you get naming rights). Nice jam crack through the bulge huh?

Maybe someone will free the initial seam and we'll have a straight line... anyone for a 5.13 project? C'mon, that's only, what, V8? Crux gear is a #1 brassie.

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#60131 - 09/13/11 02:53 PM Re: New mixed (aid+free) route at PK [Re: Mike Rawdon]
yellowhouse Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/19/07
Posts: 12
Loc: NYC
I admit, after soloing up from the base of the seam, over that gaping hole. I was questioning the sanity of the climb, not knowing what lay ahead.

I edited your photo to detail the route I took: http://www.flickr.com/photos/31062736@N08/6144206774/

I did feel like going over the crack bulge was in the mid 10 range. Steep with Very nice jams!

Sounds like you may have taken a more direct route. I saw the only horiz. crack in the slab above the pointed boulder and made a bee line for it.

When someone does send the crack, I'd guess hard 12/'easy' 13.

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