On the day of the photo, there was a crew of four awaiting their turns at the tight end. Sandy Stewart, Mike Sawicky, Ivan Rezucha and just for laughs, myself. My real job was to toss the extra rope out to the leader who would eventually end up swinging in space. On one attempt followed by a fall/swing, Kevin had us lower him off some to a point further down the wall beneath the height of the belay. At this point he started working out moves that would lead directly up to the base of the exit crack at the left end of the initial traverse. I've an unscanned slide of him working that wall trying to find an alternate.
Other than that day, I've not returned to the route as it was way, way, way beyond my abilities, and have no further info other than one would get from the guidebook. Climbing changed dramatically of course between 1977 and 1993, so it wasn't really a surprise to hear of the FFA. Bold and difficult stuff.
I found the move out of the chimney one of the most committing and scary things I'd ever done on a climb. I made the initial move than jumped the hell off and took the swing out just to get rid of the jitters. Gave it another try and passed the rope back to more qualified folks.
Here's Mike a few years earlier doing what was probably the first all nut ascent.. solo. No fixed pins, all gear clean. He developed quite an affinity for the climb during those years.
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