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#58242 - 06/27/11 02:44 PM MILLBROOK and THE GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE ETC
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE Class 4 Donald Perry 1990

It is best to approach Millbrook from the north end of the cliff rather than repelling in my opinion, I think at least once in your life when you visit Millbrook. This way you can know how to climb out of Millbrook if you need to or want to, especially in some kind of emergency.

To get to the North end of the Grand Traverse Ledge starting from Trapps Bridge follow the carriage road along the back of the Near Trapps and find the Bayards Path which will lead you to the ridge between the Near Trapps and Bayards. Follow the Ridge Trail along the top of Bayards to climb Millbrook ridge. [As a side note, in the wet seasons there is a spring that runs over the trail at this point just before the Ridge Trail starts to ascend Millbrook Mountain. You can fill up your water bottles here.]

Climbing up in elevation abruptly you will eventually reach the edge of the actual cliff edge of Millbrook Mountain by means of a few camel backs. Part way to edge of the actual cliff you will meet a rock that is 5 foot high and 10 long where the trail goes around it on the right. I am going to call this rock the "GTL Stone", because it is very near the level of the Millbrook Grand Traverse Ledge. Keep this in mind as you pass this rock. After you pass this rock on the Ridge Trail continue up the hill until you go over a hump of rock. [To identify this hump of rock note that there is a 12' long crack that is 4" wide and 3' deep that runs a few feet left and parallel to the trail on the top of this outcrop of whitish conglomerate. ] From here the trail goes down and along level through trees for a few feet before a long smooth ridge of stone that ascends up to a block a few hundred feet away. [By the way, this stone ridge and this part of the trail now make the actual stone ridge, the edge of the Millbrook cliff. Do not climb this ridge.] At the base of this stone ridge depart from the trail going left and parallel to the trail to then traverse along the cliff South East past some small caves to a finger of rock that points south opposite a very short smooth North facing corner. Start descending directly down from here and below this smooth corner facing North. You will pass a ledge of rock to the base of this short cliff to a sloping hill of leaves and trees, and underbrush. Believe it or not, you are now on the Grand Traverse Ledge in less than 5 minutes from the time you left the trail!



Edited by donald perry (06/27/11 03:06 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#58243 - 06/27/11 03:05 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
THE SOUTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE 5:3 donald perry 1977

To explain how to walk off and up the South Side of the GTL ledge is easier to do then try and explain how to down climb from the top of the cliff. From the South side of the GTL ascend up at the point where the top of the cliff disappears, here there is shorter cliff a few hundred feet over this cliff. Go up here and left, do not climb directly to this next cliff of rock (trying to exit straight up and right in the corner near a chimney is more difficult). You will come to a large flat topped sloping boulder just before the cliff face. The cliff in front has a chimney at the right and there is a right facing corner on the left, which slopes down from left to right to make a ramp. Climb the ramp to the top. There is a chimney next to the ramp which is more awkward then the ramp, yet the chimney is more secure. The hard part of the chimney is turning around after you enter it.


Edited by donald perry (06/27/11 05:05 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#58244 - 06/27/11 03:26 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2679
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Sounds like some fun. Thanks for posting.

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#58248 - 06/27/11 04:12 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
WANDERING STARS 5.11 A5 Donald Perry. May 1993

START: Between Fat Stick and Yellow Ridge at the point where a large rock touches the cliff.

FIRST PITCH: Angle up right and over first roof. Climb straight up to a large concave scoop. Enter the scoop and angle up left to the outer right corner of the second big roof. Up and walk right to the belay ledge.

SECOND PITCH: Climb straight up to the second overhang. Continue to the top inches left of a corner facing left over the second overhang.



Edited by donald perry (06/28/11 04:35 AM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#58250 - 06/27/11 04:35 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
NUCLEAR WASTE 5.11 Donald Perry & Michael Burlingame August 1992

START: On the only fourth band of rock down from the top where the rock is of high quality. This is on the left side of the cliff below and right of The Escape Hatch. This band of rock we called The Fourth Belt. Look for a scooped out striped corner facing right 40' right of the start of this cliff.

FIRST PITCH: Climb a vertical crack that runs on the right side of the scooped out corner. After reaching a stance where the crack turns dark climb left and onto bright orange rock around the corner. From here move up and [exit off left and up at 12:00 after the first roof. See Variation].

Var. 1 THE LIGHT 5.12 Frank Tkac & Don Perry 1979.
From here move up and [right to turn the roof near its end. Start moving right again to grab the rock we called The Tongue. Climb the overhanging vertical crack over the second roof to the end of The Fourth Belt.]


Edited by donald perry (06/27/11 04:36 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#58251 - 06/27/11 04:45 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
THE KRAWITZ ROUTE 5.7, A4 Donald Perry. July 11th 1992

Start: Directly below the right side of a block (this feature I called "the Suzy K Block") perched on the lip of an overhang thirty feet from the ground and ten feet to the left of Horseman.

FIRST PITCH: Climb straight up to the right side of the Suzy K Block. Climb to the top of the block. Angle up at eleven o'clock to and through a flake system facing left to the top.
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#58252 - 06/27/11 04:47 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
THE MUNSON ROUTE 5.8, A4 Donald Perry July 11, 1992

START: Ten feet to the right of Doug's Roof at the base of a diagonal crack.

FIRST PITCH: Climb the diagonal crack and climb straight up over the lip and straight up to the top.


Edited by donald perry (06/27/11 06:22 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#58253 - 06/27/11 04:49 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
REDIRECTIONAL IDEALISM 5.6 A4 Donald Perry & Neal Weiss July 1992

START: Eleven feet to the left of Organic Iron at the base of a broken corner facing left. This is also directly below a notch facing left where the second overhang jumps down a step size.

FIRST PITCH: Climb up 5.1 corner to roof. Aid over roof and through notch. At the top of overhangs follow diagonal crack left to a ledge.

SECOND PITCH: Climb diagonal crack through overhangs and on to the Grand Traverse Ledge.

THIRD PITCH: Climb 5.2 face that is 20' to the right.



Edited by donald perry (06/27/11 04:54 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#58270 - 06/28/11 02:18 AM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Dude, what's up with all the A4 and A5, did you have an ugly wife or bad job back then?


In all seriousness, good job - and thanks for posting.

DL

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#58271 - 06/28/11 02:40 AM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: Lucander]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Don, did you used to wonder around the Trapps with your leather mountaineering boots bumming rides on ropes by tying in with a bowline around the waist....around 1994 or so? if that was you, then I met you way back then. my first spring climbing in the Gunks this dude walks up and asks if he can grab a ride on our TR on P-38. We say sure, then watch flabbergasted as he ties the rope around his waist and dances up a 5.10b in mountaineering boots!


Edited by RangerRob (06/28/11 02:44 AM)

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