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#60023 - 09/07/11 03:43 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: oenophore]
curmudgeon Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/27/10
Posts: 282
I tried this last night without the lines and everything shifted to the left.

Redirectionalism, the alphabet topo.

Start on the letter M and scrabble to the top.

R
_E
_DIRECT
_____I
_____O
____N
____A
____L
_____I
____S
_____M

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#60024 - 09/07/11 03:54 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: oenophore]
Advocacy group Offline
addict

Registered: 08/03/10
Posts: 539
Loc: New Paltz,Marbletown,Gardiner,...
Originally Posted By: oenophore
Is that G major or G minor?


Oenone, there is more than one choice for each. For major we could have Lydian or whole tone or Lydian augmented to name a few. As for minor you could have super locrian, harmonic minor, melodic minor etc.. Either way Mohonk still gives us the blues.
_________________________
The MPNA is an advocacy group for adjacent neighbors of the Mohonk Preserve. In the event of a dispute with the Mohonk Preserve, we can offer assistance in obtaining experts in the following areas; Surveying, Lawyers, Title, expert witnesses, ancient document research, and Maps.

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#60025 - 09/07/11 04:15 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: Advocacy group]
retroscree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 218
Originally Posted By: Advocacy group
Either way Mohonk still gives us me and my few whiny acquaintances the blues.

Do you really have to interject this crap crusade of yours into every effing thread?

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#63022 - 03/12/12 04:15 AM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1120
Loc: New Jersey
REDIRECTIONALISM DIRECT 5.13 C R August 2, 2011 Joshua Perry & Don Perry. Start 45 right of New Frontier.

FIRST PITCH Climb up past two separated right facing corners to an overhang. Traverse right under overhang to another right facing corner over the roof. Climb through right facing corner to the base of a ramp. Climb up a ramp left (this ramp is called The White Meat Cleaver) to its top and a small ledge.

SECOND PITCH Traverse right a few feet and up to the roof at a notch directly over the Meat Cleaver. Climb upwards and then left (this is the point where Redirectionalism goes direct) around the left side of a wide black streak into overhangs above and protection. Move back down to belay on a narrow ledge to the left.

THIRD PITCH At the overhangs, climb straight up over small roofs directly over the top of the left side of the Meat-Cleaver, at the same time while climbing left around a large white bulge and up to roof. Under the roof traverse right past a small hole 5' to turn roof directly over center of Meat-Cleaver, which is at the same time under a horizontal crack under the next roof at its widest opening. The aforementioned roof is over and a part of the regular route. Turn narrow roof and the wider roof above on the regular route and climb up to the last roof to a hanging belay.

VARIATION 5.11. Up to the last roof continue straight up to it and over the roof to top. Use under clings on the last roof to turn roof just under a right facing corner over the roof.

FOURTH PITCH Between the Meleski, Gruenberg Variation and the afore mentioned forth pitch variation of Redirectionalism Direct, climb up into short right facing corners in the overhang to the top. There is an unavoidable run-out out and over the roof on 5.13+ moves. We have already climbed it with aid on hooks at A3, however we are now working to free this variation in better style, it is no longer an aid climb. Trying to protect it or aid it will damage the climb. There is a place for a small tcu, but it does not hold consistently and pops out.




Redirectionalism Direct 5.13 C R Joshua Perry & Donald Perry 8.2.11




Edited by donald perry (03/12/12 04:04 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment, but it is up to us to keep it safe.

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#63181 - 03/19/12 02:17 AM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1120
Loc: New Jersey
Originally Posted By: donald perry
REDIRECTIONALISM DIRECT 5.13 August 2, 2011 Joshua Perry & Don Perry. Start 45 right of New Frontier.

FIRST PITCH 5.9 Climb up past two separated right facing corners to an overhang. Traverse right under overhang to another right facing corner over the roof. Climb through this right facing corner to the base of a ramp. Climb up a ramp left (this ramp is called The White Meat Cleaver) to its top and a small ledge.

SECOND PITCH 5.12 Traverse right a few feet and up to the roof at a notch directly over the Meat Cleaver. Climb upwards and then left (this is the point where Redirectionalism goes direct) around the left side of a wide black streak into overhangs above and protection. Move back down to belay on a narrow ledge to the left.

THIRD PITCH 5.12 At the overhangs, climb slight right over small roofs, then left around a large white bulge and up to roof. Under the roof traverse right pasting a small hole 5' to turn the immediate roof in the middle of the next roof above Climbing straight up to belay under the last roof on the climb.

VARIATION 5.11. Continue straight over the last roof to the top.

FOURTH PITCH 5.13 Between the Meleski, Gruenberg Variation and the afore mentioned forth pitch variation of Redirectionalism Direct, climb up into short right facing corners in the overhang to the top. The pitch has no protection.




Redirectionalism Direct 5.13 Joshua Perry & Donald Perry 8.2.11




Edited by donald perry (03/19/12 09:36 AM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment, but it is up to us to keep it safe.

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#63186 - 03/19/12 11:50 AM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
AOR Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/27/04
Posts: 379
Don...may I ask the most obvious question?

Why do you continue to post your route description over and over again? Does it change that much since the last post?

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#63190 - 03/19/12 01:25 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: AOR]
curmudgeon Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/27/10
Posts: 282
Don, Permission to use my Millbrook photo is officially over. I let you slide the first few times you posted it after borrowing (stealing) it from the internet. This is about the tenth time. What's up with that?

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#63192 - 03/19/12 01:57 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: curmudgeon]
donald perry Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1120
Loc: New Jersey
Originally Posted By: curmudgeon
Don, Permission to use my Millbrook photo is officially over. I let you slide the first few times you posted it after borrowing (stealing) it from the internet. This is about the tenth time. What's up with that?


Wow, really?, this is the first time you complained I remove it after I asked you about it and you gave me no answer, do you have a quote that shows otherwise? I even offered to pay you for its use here. Why did you wait all the way till now to complain? I will see that it is removed entirely and use my own picture. No hard feelings, anyone can take one from the base that looks perfectly fine, and I have one like that already.

My reason for reposting the description is because of the inability to edit the description and improve it, the only option available is to repost it. The way the forum is set gives me no other choice. Unless there something I am missing and thus your reason for complaining?

How ironic, now you know what is going to happen next?


Edited by donald perry (03/19/12 02:28 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment, but it is up to us to keep it safe.

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#63193 - 03/19/12 02:10 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
curmudgeon Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/27/10
Posts: 282
Maybe you can edit out my name too in the above post as that is in violation of gunks.com rules.

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#63195 - 03/19/12 02:15 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: curmudgeon]
donald perry Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1120
Loc: New Jersey
i did, yet your name is already in other posts not by me.


Edited by donald perry (03/19/12 02:30 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment, but it is up to us to keep it safe.

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