Shout Box

Who's Online
0 registered (), 10 Guests and 3 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 22 of 25 < 1 2 ... 20 21 22 23 24 25 >
Topic Options
#64105 - 04/22/12 10:57 AM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: RangerRob]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
What is the story of "Lean Cuisine". Did someone solo that yet?, I don't think it is possible to lead it. The first pitch has a sick runout on 5.11+ and the second pich is an akle breaker on an ever longer runout than you would never have imagined.


Edited by donald perry (04/22/12 12:20 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#64107 - 04/22/12 11:16 AM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
12c in approach shoes, strong work!

Top
#64109 - 04/22/12 11:52 AM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: Mike Rawdon]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
No, I bought some like new EB type red rockshoes ... they don't make those high-top ship shaped toe climbing shoes anymore.

They love me on Ebay.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKtlK7sn0JQ


Edited by donald perry (04/22/12 03:47 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#64131 - 04/23/12 10:23 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: RangerRob]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey
BACK TO THE LAND MOVEMENT 5.11D

In photos Dick Williams has BTTLM crossing New Frontier and going right while Swain has it crossing New Frontier and going up about 10' further over to the left.

From the long ledge Williams has: "Move Right to a left facing flake, climb the flake past a small overhang and continue up to steep face to the left side of a ceiling."

From the long ledge Swain has: "Step right from the stance to a left facing flake. Climb the flake to a ceiling."

The line in the photo is wrong in the Swain book. There is no route that goes up the middle of he orange face.



Edited by donald perry (04/23/12 10:25 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#64449 - 05/01/12 07:21 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: RangerRob]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey

REDIRECTIONALISM DIRECT 5.13 August 2, 2011 Joshua Perry & Don Perry. Start 45 right of New Frontier.

FIRST PITCH 5.9 Climb up past two separated right facing corners to an overhang. Traverse right under overhang to another right facing corner over the roof. Climb through this right facing corner to the base of a ramp. Climb up a ramp left (this ramp is called The White Meat Cleaver) to its top and a small ledge.

SECOND PITCH 5.12 Traverse right a few feet and up to the roof at a notch directly over the Meat Cleaver. Climb upwards and then left (this is the point where Redirectionalism goes direct) around the left side of a wide black streak into overhangs above and protection. Move back down to belay on a narrow ledge to the left.

THIRD PITCH 5.12 At the overhangs, climb slight right over small roofs, then left around a large white bulge and up to roof. Under the roof traverse right pasting a small hole 5' to turn the immediate roof in the middle of the next roof above Climbing straight up to belay under the last roof on the climb.

FOURTH PITCH 5.13 Traverse left 6' just before the obvious break in the giant roof. Turn the roof through a hairline crack and right facing corners that start 6' out over the overhang. Climb up into short right facing corners in the overhang to under another overhang just before the top. This pitch has no protection.

FIFTH PITCH 5.12. Traverse left on good holds to a giant left facing corner facing New Frontier 10' right of Redirectionalism. Climb over the prow to the top and reconnect with Redirectionalism at the finish.



_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#64706 - 05/06/12 09:18 AM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey


Correction below. Found placement for BLACK DIAMOND CAMALOT C3 - 000 on 4th pitch in small slot. Make sure it is in aall the way with the inside cam facing to the left and it will not damage the rock.





Follow link above to video

REDIRECTIONALISM DIRECT 5.13 August 2, 2011 Joshua Perry & Don Perry. Start 45 right of New Frontier.

FIRST PITCH 5.9 Climb up past two separated right facing corners to an overhang. Traverse right under overhang to another right facing corner over the roof. Climb through this right facing corner to the base of a ramp. Climb up a ramp left (this ramp is called The White Meat Cleaver) to its top and a small ledge.

SECOND PITCH 5.12 Traverse right a few feet and up to the roof at a notch directly over the Meat Cleaver. Climb upwards and then left (this is the point where Redirectionalism goes direct) around the left side of a wide black streak into overhangs above and protection. Move back down to belay on a narrow ledge to the left.

THIRD PITCH 5.12 At the overhangs, climb slight right over small roofs, then left around a large white bulge and up to roof. Under the roof traverse right pasting a small hole 5' to turn the immediate roof in the middle of the next roof above Climbing straight up to belay under the last roof on the climb.

FOURTH PITCH 5.13 Traverse left 6' just before the obvious break in the giant roof. Turn the roof through a hairline crack and right facing corners that start 6' out over the overhang. Climb up into short right facing corners in the overhang and left a few to under another overhang just before the top.

FIFTH PITCH 5.12. Traverse left on good holds to a giant left facing outisde corner facing New Frontier 10' right of Redirectionalism. Climb over the prow to the top and reconnect with Redirectionalism at the finish.
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#64808 - 05/13/12 03:18 PM Re: THE NORTHERN MILLBROOK GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey


_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#64817 - 05/14/12 11:37 AM Re: MILLBROOK and THE GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE ETC [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1530
Loc: New Jersey


Pictures above have embedded links to videos.
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#64823 - 05/14/12 03:51 PM Re: MILLBROOK and THE GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE ETC [Re: donald perry]
oenophore Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5969
Loc: 212 land
Originally Posted By: donald perry
Pictures above have embedded links to videos.
The climbing is good but the cinematography could be better
_________________________

Top
#64825 - 05/14/12 05:51 PM Re: MILLBROOK and THE GRAND TRAVERSE LEDGE ETC [Re: oenophore]
johnm Offline
newbie

Registered: 04/03/02
Posts: 36
Cool stuff!
Yikes.

Top
Page 22 of 25 < 1 2 ... 20 21 22 23 24 25 >


Moderator:  Mike Rawdon, Steven Cherry 
Sponsored