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#58526 - 07/05/11 03:16 PM Re: confidence routes [Re: RangerRob]
stoopid Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/09/08
Posts: 67
Loc: West Sand Lake, NY
Worth, I'm going to miss climbing with you (eventually). As you progress (past what I'm willing and capable of climbing) you'll shed and attract new climbing buddies. It's all part of the sport I suppose. Hopefully you'll still get out for some funsie stuff from time to time, like the plans to do some TR'ing at Peterskill to help nudge our grade and skills up a few nothces... versus doing it on lead, which as has been discussed, is IMHO the dangerous way of learning to climb stronger.

BTW, good lead on Ants Line. I wasn't even willing to try the crux with the swing, and you did it with style with some decent fall potential on less than bomber gear. Anyone know what the face climbing immediately left of Ant's Line's crux goes at? It was tough, maybe as tough, but didn't have any swing on follow so I opted to do it instead.


Edited by stoopid (07/05/11 03:19 PM)

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#58527 - 07/05/11 03:26 PM Re: confidence routes [Re: Rickster]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Originally Posted By: Rickster
Ant's Line was a 5.9.


Huh?

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#58528 - 07/05/11 04:09 PM Re: confidence routes [Re: Mike Rawdon]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2470
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Rob, I know we actually agree more than our internet arguments might suggest. And if your hypothetical 5.8 climber wants to dog or aid their way up Doublissma (hopefully not on a crowded weekend though), no one has any business telling them they can't do that. If you aren't harming the environment (and aren't hogging a popular route all day), anything goes.

But---they shouldn't mistake that activity for trad climbing. Perhaps, as in the thread on rc.com you and I also participated in, we need a new designation, gear climbing, to indicate the gear-protected sport-climbing style.

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#58529 - 07/05/11 04:22 PM Re: confidence routes [Re: rg@ofmc]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Hey Rich,

You better stop posting and log off. We're going to be late for our shift at the buggy whip factory.

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#58530 - 07/05/11 04:55 PM Re: confidence routes [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Originally Posted By: Rickster
Ant's Line was a 5.9.


Huh?


Mike rereading your quoted statement of mine I agree with your "Huh?" Long weekend, all the fireworks were probably still going off in my ears. What I meant to say is that you should be able to onsight a 5.9 such as Ant's line with relative ease before moving onto other more challenging 5.9's and considering yourself a 5.9 leader.

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#58532 - 07/05/11 05:00 PM Re: confidence routes [Re: stoopid]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Originally Posted By: stoopid
Worth, I'm going to miss climbing with you (eventually). As you progress (past what I'm willing and capable of climbing) you'll shed and attract new climbing buddies. It's all part of the sport I suppose. Hopefully you'll still get out for some funsie stuff from time to time, like the plans to do some TR'ing at Peterskill to help nudge our grade and skills up a few nothces... versus doing it on lead, which as has been discussed, is IMHO the dangerous way of learning to climb stronger.

BTW, good lead on Ants Line. I wasn't even willing to try the crux with the swing, and you did it with style with some decent fall potential on less than bomber gear. Anyone know what the face climbing immediately left of Ant's Line's crux goes at? It was tough, maybe as tough, but didn't have any swing on follow so I opted to do it instead.


The left face of the Ants line corner is Ents line .11 something. next face over from Ants line's corner is a .7

what swing were you taking from Ants line's crux It's basically a straight shot from the bolted anchor.

i'd consider Ants line 9- and P1 bonnies to be 8+. eat gear and you can get decent stem rests in many spots.

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#58534 - 07/05/11 05:00 PM Re: confidence routes [Re: stoopid]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Originally Posted By: stoopid

BTW, good lead on Ants Line. I wasn't even willing to try the crux with the swing, and you did it with style with some decent fall potential on less than bomber gear. Anyone know what the face climbing immediately left of Ant's Line's crux goes at? It was tough, maybe as tough, but didn't have any swing on follow so I opted to do it instead.


If you are doing any move on Ants Line with less than bomber gear then you are doing something wrong. I can't think of a better protected climb. There really should not be any swing to worry about. The crux on that has endless gear just below and about the best #1 Camalot placement there is at the overhang with plenty of gear as soon as you pull up. The face to the left is Ent's Line, a really good climb, and depending on exactly what line you take generally goes anywhere from 11.a to 11.c.

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#58536 - 07/05/11 05:29 PM Re: confidence routes [Re: rg@ofmc]
tradjunkie Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 365
Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
But---they shouldn't mistake that activity for trad climbing. Perhaps, as in the thread on rc.com you and I also participated in, we need a new designation, gear climbing, to indicate the gear-protected sport-climbing style.


Did you gearpoint the route or just geardog it?

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#58537 - 07/05/11 06:22 PM Re: confidence routes [Re: worthrussell]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: worthrussell
I've onsighted all of the three and two star gray dick's 5.7s....<snip>
and the following day onsighted ants line. I ended up hang dogging the crux on ants


Based on the above, I have no idea now if you can even climb 5.7.

Please define for us your definition of "onsight".

Thanks,

GO

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#58538 - 07/05/11 07:07 PM Re: confidence routes [Re: GOclimb]
tradjunkie Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 365
I have yet to hangdog all the 2 and 3 star 5.7s in the Gunks, so I think I'm falling behind.

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