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#58769 - 07/14/11 07:01 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: Chas]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
watch johnny dawes do that pitch to see how to do it with style

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#58774 - 07/14/11 07:58 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: Chas]
retroscree Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 06/29/11
Posts: 397
Isn't heel/toe jamming the toe and heel of the same foot against opposite sides of the crack? Putting the toe of one foot against the instep of the other is just a foot stacking variant.

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#58781 - 07/15/11 01:29 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: schwortz]
Rickster Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 845
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Originally Posted By: schwortz
watch johnny dawes do that pitch to see how to do it with style


The link: www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLyF8zcP674&playnext=1&list=PL73482FABDA0025A7

I don't think he left out any chimney technique here. And, some arm bars, knee bars and what looks like an iron cross in there to boot. A tutorial on flared dihedral climbing. Impressive. This vid rates the climb at 5.11d, so I guess the Brits have as much difficulty as we Yanks when agreeing on grades.

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#58782 - 07/15/11 02:48 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: Rickster]
retr2327 Offline
member

Registered: 06/14/07
Posts: 108
"what looks like an iron cross in there to boot"
Well, as with most issues, I'd defer to Rich on this, but I don't think that would qualify as a true iron cross. Supporting oneself on extended arms pressing against a solid surface uses entirely different muscles than supporting oneself in that position on hanging rings.

The former is challenging, but not unreasonably so, especially if your palms are below your shoulders. The latter . . .
Not in this lifetime.

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#58783 - 07/15/11 03:05 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: retr2327]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Dawes makes it look a lot easier. Going on memory, I think he stems past some of the places that appeared hard to chimney in the other video. You get a sense of how slick slate is at one point when Dawes' foot actually skids while loaded.

It looks like you could heel-toe in the back of that dihedral, by the way, but that is looking at it with granite/sandstone eyes...

The moment when Dawes suspends himself on opposed arm cross-pressure is cool, perhaps a bit of a party trick, but it is absolutely nothing like an iron cross in difficulty.

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#58785 - 07/15/11 04:14 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: rg@ofmc]
Rickster Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 845
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
I found the big, long prone move with feet on one wall and the single hand,then double hands stretched out impressive. Body bar, super man, plank, what could we call that?

And, yes I know what a true iron cross looks like, and have experienced how difficult it is to execute (failed), just couldn't think of what one might call that technique in rock climbing a flared dihedral.


Edited by Rickster (07/15/11 04:18 PM)

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#58787 - 07/15/11 04:46 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: Rickster]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Arm Oppo? Reverse Crusher? Atlas Shrug? Wall Reffing?

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#58789 - 07/15/11 05:40 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: Rickster]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: Rickster
Originally Posted By: schwortz
watch johnny dawes do that pitch to see how to do it with style


The link: www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLyF8zcP674&playnext=1&list=PL73482FABDA0025A7


WOW! Among the coolest videos I've ever seen of climbing! I actually applauded when he cut both feet and stuck the high left foot.

This vid also explained something I couldn't understand from the last one - why was he bringing his feet so damn high? The shots from above showed that the rock in some places is polished to an actual mirror sheen. That explains that!

GO

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#58798 - 07/15/11 07:34 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: GOclimb]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
if you've never seen johnny dawes' video "stone monkey" you're missing out on some primo climbing vid porn...it includes the quarryman as the finale

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#58801 - 07/15/11 07:45 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: schwortz]
TerrieM Offline
addict

Registered: 05/14/09
Posts: 425
Loc: Gunks in Summer, Southwest in ...
Both videos are excellent. But those gold lycra pants on dawes' belayer are a blast from a past I'm sort of glad I was too young for! hahaha

Yeah - you could SEE the sheen on the the rock face. I cannot imagine the steel those guys are made of! What of the FAist!?

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