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#58808 - 07/15/11 09:29 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: TerrieM]
Rickster Online   content
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 816
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
The Quarryman, 1986 by ...... Johnny Dawes. The probable first one day ascent or all 4 pitches was just this past spring by Steve McClure.
Test report:
www.rockandice.com/news/1468-steve-mcclu...ng-qthe-grooveq

Mammut video with some coverage of McClure on The Groove pitch:
www.rockandice.com/videos?task=videodirectlink&id=226

Now that we've got all the possible beta, the bolts have been tested and proven, who's fly'n over?


Edited by Rickster (07/15/11 09:35 PM)

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#58812 - 07/15/11 10:51 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: rg@ofmc]
AOR Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/27/04
Posts: 392
Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
It is slate. There's all kinds of horrendous steep slab climbing on former slate quarries in Llanberis.

Rick, I don't think heel-toe technique gets you anywhere in a badly flared dihedral.


Llanberis is a great place to climb. During my stay there (early 80's), I had an opportunity to have a conversation with the legendary Joe Brown and was awed by his humility. I also played a round of pool with Moe Antoine at a local pub just prior to one of his Himalayas trips, (sorry for the name dropping, but it was just too cool not to mention!).

To climb in a place with such an incredible climbing history alone was worth the trip.

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#58841 - 07/17/11 07:19 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: AOR]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2776
Loc: Gardiner, NY
yeah! now that is name dropping I don't mind. how was it getting used to that rock.
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#58893 - 07/18/11 05:19 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: rg@ofmc]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2354
Loc: Boston
Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
It is slate. There's all kinds of horrendous steep slab climbing on former slate quarries in Llanberis.


Guess it really teaches you to climb in control and press in/down, not pull out, when every hold is extremely suspect. When he pulled off that big chunk (@ minute 8 in the vid) his balance didn't even shift. He just tossed it down to join the rest of the debris.

GO

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#58897 - 07/18/11 07:23 PM Re: chimneying is Easy, Right? [Re: GOclimb]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2776
Loc: Gardiner, NY
that video is pretty awesome, there is also this slate route called 'the very big and the very small' that sounded horrendously difficult.

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