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#57423 - 05/12/11 08:08 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Julie]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
seriously? someone is putting in new cable anchors? unreal

jay - dont hold back when you have those words

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#57430 - 05/13/11 01:41 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Julie]
KathyS Offline
member

Registered: 01/10/08
Posts: 196
Loc: NY, USA
Originally Posted By: Julie
Kathy, I wondered the same a few weeks ago (and walked off as usual). Next day I met a guy/guide named Jason? who was discussing anchor replacement with Paul Curran; I brought up the new Betty wires, and Paul said it was a "french weave" and is safe. Jason said he knew who'd been installing those, and intended to have a word with him.

I try to keep an eye on the Urusla anchor, but haven't been up there yet this year. Anyone?


It may be safe, but the loose ends need to be oriented away from the rap rings and perhaps wrapped with duct tape to keep them from further fraying and poking potential users. It's a fairly unattractive arrangement, and I wonder if the pair of steel cables will do more damage to the tree than a soft nylon sling would.

Ursula may be one spot where cables might be beneficial, if they can fit around the pinch point in the rocks. Seems the nylon bits there are often frayed from the sharp rock. Haven't been on it yet this year.

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#57443 - 05/13/11 09:43 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: KathyS]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
Originally Posted By: KathyS

I wonder if the pair of steel cables will do more damage to the tree than a soft nylon sling would.


that misses the point. you dont need ANY fixed anchor at the top of betty. walk off.

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#57460 - 05/15/11 05:46 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: schwortz]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Anyone else think the tree on Drunkards is a bit sketchy?

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#57471 - 05/16/11 01:25 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: jakedatc]
Lucander Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 225
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Which tree on Drunkards? In the past I've seen slings wrapped around the twig below roof (at p. 1 belay) and there are usually rappel slings atop p. 2 on the GT Ledge. Then there's the odd bundle of branches growing below the roof off to the right, part of Bloody Mary. Some fools like to TR off of it...

DL

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#57473 - 05/16/11 03:17 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Ah.. i guess it is more the top of Bloody mary. I had never heard anything about P2 of Drunkards so I had assumed it wasn't much so we skipped it. i see now that it is actually recommended. We should have kept going up.

partner cleaned drunkards off it but I backed it up for sure.

Do you need to use that tree when coming down from Drunkards p2/3? if so my anchor suggestion should still stand since that thing is crap and in a fairly popular area.

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#57475 - 05/16/11 04:44 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: jakedatc]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
top pitch of drunkards is pretty fun if easy climbing

easiest descent is to walk left or right to another route

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#57476 - 05/16/11 05:32 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: schwortz]
Lucander Online   content
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 225
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Drunkard's descent options (from a pampered 30 year old)

1. Finish the route (worth doing once a year) and walk to climber's left. Rap City Lights.

2. From GTL atop p. 2: walk left and rap the bolted line just left of Maria.

Do NOT go to that tree and rap. Inspect it closely. Little to no root structure and it's being held in place by stable but less than perfect rock. I went to that tree back in my "younger" days with a 50+ year old veteran. He, a veteran Red Rock (back when it was spooky) climber and early ascentionist of El Cap) refused to rap from that tree. Lesson learned.

DL

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#57478 - 05/16/11 12:09 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
3. A short distance to the left is the excellent 5.4 top pitch of Sixish or its 5.10 direct variation (the original aid line that gave Sixish its name).

4. A short distance to the right is the excellent top pitch of Morning After, with its Yosemite-like and, in my opinion, solid 5.8 final twenty feet.

5. If walking left to the Maria rap bolts, might as well do the classic 5.6 top pitch of Maria.

6. Another option from the top is to walk right and rap Arch from bolts. If you have two 60's, it is a single rap to the ground IF you swing left at the bottom (be careful here).

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#57480 - 05/16/11 04:34 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
I used that tree last fall, don't remember it seeming sketchy.

We are talking about the tree on the GT ledge, yes? I'm surprised to hear this.

The tree atop the traditional pitch one, which sits below the big roof, had slings around it in the fall and I thought it was total crap.
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