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#60705 - 10/03/11 12:07 AM Re: Free Soloing [Re: donald perry]
Rickster Online   content
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 853
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
Returning to the original post. CBS just aired a segment focusing on Alex Honnold's June '11 free solos of The Phoenix and the Chouinard-Herbert on Sentinel Rock. With numerous camera men on the face, two long lens teams on the valley floor and a few remotely controlled cameras on the route itself, they had it all covered, even as he cruised by the remotes, ..... whistling. More media attention, more TV drama, but it did make for some entertaining viewing.

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#60725 - 10/03/11 02:38 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: donald perry]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Originally Posted By: donald perry
OK, I can see you still .....


I rock climb when its below 32F. My second attempt on the Terminator ( a 5.12c tips crack at a little known crag called the Waterfall in Arizona) was with absolutely wooden fingers but I still climb with rock shoes. For that I used my normal shoes, but I also have an older pair of insulated Boreal Ninjas for when it gets really cold (like on Cayesh in Peru ( http://images.summitpost.org/original/198285.jpg ). I'll use leather boots for ice climbing but thats it, don't hike in them, don't like to climb in them. I'm even migrating to Fruitboots this year for ice and mixed climbing.

As for pushing it. A lot of people are pushing it day in and day out. I am climbing with a guy who after going out a couple of trad climbs we just put him on hard stuff. The first route I ever put him on was Swedlin Ringle- and he was leading (easy 5.12a at Indian Creek). The second route I put him on was Rubys Cafe (that one he only followed the first time he got on it). That is only easy 5.13a/5.12dish. I'll post a video of him on Red Planet (an overhanging 5.13 ring lock route)at some point. He neveer says take, but just climbs until he falls.

Funny thing about the internet. You don't know your audience, since your audience is everyone.

Rick, I agree with you that the piece on Alex Honnold was awesome.


Edited by Chas (10/03/11 02:46 PM)

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#60742 - 10/03/11 10:47 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: Chas]
oenophore Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5981
Loc: 212 land
CBS just aired a segment focusing on Alex Honnold's June '11 free solos of The Phoenix and the Chouinard-Herbert on Sentinel Rock.

Impressive. It's all too humbling to watch someone solo something that most of us couldn't do on a toprope.
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#60744 - 10/03/11 11:25 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: oenophore]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
My ability to PM you guys is disabled and I can no longer post on tax vs Preserve.

Just as well, I needed to get on to other things, [I think I covered all the bases, said everything that could be said], the monitor did me a favor.

Just wanted to let you guys know what is going on. If anyone needs to reach me for some reason let me know on this thread I guess.
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The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#60766 - 10/05/11 12:25 AM Re: Free Soloing [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
"John Wayne never wore Lycra." — Ron Kauk about why he climbs in Blue-Jeans.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/1586851500?tag=...amp;camp=211189
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#66728 - 10/11/12 09:57 AM Re: Free Soloing [Re: donald perry]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1536
Loc: New Jersey
I went to Yosemite and found that you need to climb in something like blue jeens, lycra does not work very well in chimneys etc. Also, I went to solo double chin 5.6, I climb in order to get a workout. But I got stuck under the second roof. It took me about 20 minutes to figure it out without doing it before I did it before it got dark. And it was not much of a workout. I would have felt better doing a highball boulder problem. So my conclusion is that I wasted my time on double chin, and I should have rope soloed something harder.
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#66729 - 10/11/12 03:15 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: donald perry]
oenophore Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5981
Loc: 212 land
"John Wayne never wore Lycra." — Ron Kauk about why he climbs in Blue-Jeans.

Did John Wayne ever solo a route or do any route for that matter?
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#66732 - 10/11/12 07:22 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: oenophore]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I'm glad soloing is free. I would certainly never pay to be that scared.

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#66733 - 10/11/12 09:22 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: oenophore]
crimpy Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/02/11
Posts: 331
Loc: Wawarsing
Originally Posted By: oenophore
[i]"John Wayne never wore Lycra."

i heard he spent his latter years trolling climbing sites.

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#66735 - 10/12/12 01:46 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: crimpy]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2778
Loc: Gardiner, NY
yes, there was this troll once upon a time that kept using the word "pilgrim!" right here on gunks.com.
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