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#60220 - 09/17/11 01:46 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: Rickster]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1527
Loc: New Jersey
OK, I can see you still don't believe me.

ALL ABOUT LEATHER HIKING BOOTS:

I guess you guys do not rock climb when it is below 32 degrees Fahrenheit, too bad for you. You should know that it is only really cold when it gets below 10 degrees, then you have to put your hands in your pockets sometimes. Some people's hands are hot no matter how cold it got. But the boots, they have to do with big walls, climbing all day long, edging or climbing in the Gunks in the winter! That's what they are made for, and for that there is nothing better. You think you can belay in snow covered ledges in those slippers you ware? Back in the 70's I had a choice to make between two climbing shoes, Eb's and Chouinard shoenards by Vasque, the same people that made the leather hiking boots.

The shoenards were for edging and the Eb's were for smearing. Dick Williams said that he got those shoenards because there is a lot of edging in the Gunks, so I bought them. Basically they were light, stiff, and some thin cuts in the bottoms, and covered the ankle. After climbing with those awhile I switched back to hiking boots. I also use them for jumping off high ball boulder problems. And, they are very comfortable on tiny edges and not worth changing into anything else unless there is some smearing or some big overhangs involved. The weight of them sits on the cliff, and unless your on Foops or Matinee it does not make any difference.

ALL ABOUT SHAKIE MOVES:

When you see these guys climbing so very smooth, you're not seeing very much, really. But you would not know that, but don't feel bad, most people don't. I used to climb with an overweight climber, his name was Stokie Baker, he taught me what it meant to push things to the absolute limit. He knew how to throw in bomber placements in a blink of an eye, but the way he got up the climbs was simply amazing. I thought he was falling off the whole way up. The way he handled the rock was deliberately not to get comfortable and organized. That takes some balls. He just gave it all he had, and although he was heavy and weak he was pushing up new route 5.11's in a flash on sight!!! Most climbers could flash a grade harder if they were not so busy trying to annualize what they were doing and get comfortable, but they either have no idea or they don't have the balls. I write this in defense of this unknown style of climbing, I think it deserves a lot of respect, although it never has any. Virtually no one climbs like that. To get an only an *idea* of what I am talking about see this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DHn1xGQhlM

Boris climbing Supper's ready 5.12a
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

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#60221 - 09/17/11 02:22 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: donald perry]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2778
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Chouinard once said the ideal climbing shoe would be like a mountain goat hoof: outer part of sole hard for edging, toward the inside softer for smearing. when will rubber technology catch up?
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Support Your Local Farmer!

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#60222 - 09/17/11 03:48 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: donald perry]
oenophore Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/01
Posts: 5963
Loc: 212 land
For a good tale of desperate soloing, check out this NY Times opinion piece.
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#60223 - 09/17/11 06:19 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: oenophore]
Ralph Offline
member

Registered: 02/01/07
Posts: 138
Another Times article Some soloing, not really desperate. It is just a job, after all.

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#60224 - 09/17/11 11:21 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: Ralph]
TrappDyke Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/10/09
Posts: 80
After watching that a couple of times I think I see what your saying. Despite his rushed nature he is actually in full control. I think we could all use some rigidity in our climbing.

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#60226 - 09/18/11 12:08 AM Re: Free Soloing [Re: donald perry]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4275
Loc: Poughkeepsie
The only thing shaky about that "Boris" youtube video is the way it's all spastic, MTV-style 2 second cuts pieced together.

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#60240 - 09/18/11 02:26 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: Rickster]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1527
Loc: New Jersey
Originally Posted By: Advocacy group
Originally Posted By: Coppertone
At least Advocacy was entertaining to some degree. DP is just long winded and of even less interest. I think we need some new pictures for guess the route so we can at least view a post that is interesting, as this stuff was old before it was ever posted.


hey coppertone the original MohonkPreserveNeighborsAssociation thread has sped past the 30,000 view mark! So if you're hankering for a little MPNA there are 39 pages of fun for you to flip through at your leisure. Rest assured we will be posting some new and exciting stuff SOON.

Thanks, MPNA


Thanks, good idea, I will see you at
Re: Taxes VS preservation...have at it!
http://gunks.com/ubbthreads7/ubbthreads.php/topics/60238/1
AND
Re: MohonkPreserveNeighborsAssociation Redux
http://gunks.com/ubbthreads7/ubbthreads.php/topics/60197/1
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
#60278 - 09/19/11 06:34 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: donald perry]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 709
Loc: NYC
Free soloing + entertainment?

You got it!

Bring your banjo!
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#60404 - 09/22/11 07:42 PM Re: Free Soloing [Re: SethG]
eparker_s Offline
journeyman

Registered: 03/16/11
Posts: 50
Originally Posted By: SethG
Free soloing + entertainment?

You got it!

Bring your banjo!



That sh rules
I like how they end each number with an "Alright, Alright" or just "Alright"

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#60589 - 09/29/11 03:02 AM Re: Free Soloing [Re: eparker_s]
donald perry Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/11
Posts: 1527
Loc: New Jersey
stupid crack ... highball boulder problem, not a solo?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwtIfQzLyRc


Edited by donald perry (09/29/11 01:44 PM)
_________________________
The Mohonk Mountain House and the Mohonk Preserve have done a great job protecting the environment thus far, but ... it's all down hill from here http://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k.

Top
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