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#60279 - 09/19/11 06:47 PM Reach of Faith? Holy Moly!
wonderwoman Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 46
So, when was the last time anybody actually climbed this route? We bailed off it this weekend and can't figure out how it got any stars at all! It was covered in lichen and the 2nd pitch felt like it was x-rated. The second pitch was supposed to be my lead, but there was no way that I was going to take the sharp end on that licheny mess! My heart was in my throat just watching my husband do it. It was frightening!

My husband headed up the last pitch and I asked him to please bail if it in any way resembled the first two pitches. To my amazement, he took my advice! It was that bad!

So, has anyone done it? I don't think I can remember the last time I was that scared on a climb. Or maybe we were completely lost?

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#60280 - 09/19/11 09:56 PM Re: Reach of Faith? Holy Moly! [Re: wonderwoman]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 225
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
Being 5'5" and weak, I tend to avoid routes with names implying reaches. Never climbed the route, but I think it was in the October 2008 rockfall zone that wiped out the climb Chimango.

DL

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#60287 - 09/19/11 11:31 PM Re: Reach of Faith? Holy Moly! [Re: Lucander]
wonderwoman Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 46
The first and second pitches were not reachy. Just scary! (well, scary only pertaining to p2!)

It didn't look like there was rock fall. However, it did look like no one had been there in a long, long, time. It was perhaps more lichen covered than any climb that I'd ever been on. There were rap stations, indicating that somebody had climbed it at some point it time. Maybe left behind by the FAs? eek

It was crazy to me that it got a star in the book! Climb this climb if you like to be scared out of your wits!

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#60289 - 09/20/11 12:36 AM Re: Reach of Faith? Holy Moly! [Re: wonderwoman]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
Yes, I did it, many years ago with our very own Oenophore. I recall nothing about the first sections: I suppose I would if they had been poorly protected. The crux roof seemed to be a typical mid-range 5.10 roof, and the whole thing was worth doing - once. Ivan might remember more. He posts on Mountain Project, and he would reply if you emailed him. If you are desperate for less well traveled 5.10s, send me a pm. Off the top of my head . . . Nurdland, Something Scary, Outer Space Direct, and G-Forces (Only in the Swain guide) are all pretty good.


Edited by Dana (09/20/11 12:37 AM)

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#60569 - 09/28/11 04:54 PM Re: Reach of Faith? Holy Moly! [Re: Dana]
BEC Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/20/10
Posts: 1
Originally Posted By: Dana
Yes, I did it, many years ago with our very own Oenophore. I recall nothing about the first sections: I suppose I would if they had been poorly protected. The crux roof seemed to be a typical mid-range 5.10 roof, and the whole thing was worth doing - once. Ivan might remember more. He posts on Mountain Project, and he would reply if you emailed him. If you are desperate for less well traveled 5.10s, send me a pm. Off the top of my head . . . Nurdland, Something Scary, Outer Space Direct, and G-Forces (Only in the Swain guide) are all pretty good.


The scary part that WW is referring to was the 5.8 second pitch. The combination of lack of gear and it covered in lichen had my attention. She was probably more scared watching me than I was climbing it but I was pretty focused on making sure I didn't fall.

As far as the last pitch goes, I got up to the roof and looked over. I did not see any clean rock. It was covered in lichen. The climb was not calling out to me so I down climbed back to the ledge and rappeled off the tree back to where WW was belaying.

As far as obscure and less traveled 5.10s go, I have done a few, but certainly don't need to do them. IME, routes are usually less traveled for a reason. Plus, I have shifted my focus to the 3 star 5.11's grin

Josh

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#60594 - 09/29/11 01:40 PM Re: Reach of Faith? Holy Moly! [Re: BEC]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
As RG has pointed out, lichen grows fast and it doesn't take long to obscure any evidence of previous travel. I am guessing this can occur in just a couple years.

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#60599 - 09/29/11 03:58 PM Re: Reach of Faith? Holy Moly! [Re: chip]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 619
I remember there was a lot of lichen when I did it with M.J. I don't believe Ivan did a lot of cleaning of his routes.

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