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#60328 - 09/21/11 02:50 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: jakedatc]
core Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/25/07
Posts: 204
Jake, I don't understand the advantage to having a quicklink fixed to the nut when you can clip a carabiner to it if you want to use it and remove the carabiner when you are done. I haven't been up there in a couple years though.


Edited by core (09/21/11 02:56 PM)

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#60329 - 09/21/11 03:18 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: core]
wonderwoman Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 46
Maybe he is suggesting threading the quicklink so that it can be included in the anchor for the purpose of rappelling? But I've never seen anybody rappel from there.

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#60335 - 09/21/11 04:21 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: tradjunkie]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Originally Posted By: tradjunkie

I can not place the timing of the trend from walking off to rapping off but I imagine it coincided roughly with the placement of bolted rap anchors circa 2000, which accelerated the loss of downclimbing skills among new climbers, as well as shifting the trend for those uncomfortable downsoloing with 150' of air from using walkoffs (down Roger's) to raps, and from walking 3 minutes to a rap (High E) to looking for a rap within 50 yards.


The bolted rap anchors, for the most part, replaced makeshift anchors already quite established. The bolts accelerated trends like top-roping and the "single-pitching" of formerly multipitch climbs, but rapping rather than walking or downclimbing was well-established before the bolts, although it too became even more common once the bolts were in.

My theory is that the real impetus for rap descents was the banning of parking on 44-55. It used to be easy to return to your car in between climbs by walking back to the Uberfall. Hardly anyone carried a pack of gear to the base of anything. The removal of parking to remote locations made it necessary to carry your stuff to the base, and once that happened, returning to the base as quickly and efficiently as possible made rapping the method of choice.

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#60342 - 09/21/11 05:15 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: rg@ofmc]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2679
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
You are on the mark, RG. I might have carried water with me but always brought it up the climb. Likewise we almost always carried a pair of shoes to walk back down and on to the car for lunch or liquid refreshment. We never brought more than a candy bar to the cliffs when we could park closer.

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#60376 - 09/22/11 12:36 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: wonderwoman]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Originally Posted By: wonderwoman
Maybe he is suggesting threading the quicklink so that it can be included in the anchor for the purpose of rappelling? But I've never seen anybody rappel from there.


Yep, Had to rap off since my partner could not pull the P1 crux roof and then fell into space and had to be lowered to the ground.

There is a mid point anchor since a 60m won't make it to the ground also. It had one newer piece of webbing on it though.

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#60378 - 09/22/11 01:49 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: jakedatc]
curmudgeon Offline
addict

Registered: 10/27/10
Posts: 466
Is this your partner?


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#60380 - 09/22/11 01:55 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: curmudgeon]
wonderwoman Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 46
He needs to learn the art of prussicking!

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#60382 - 09/22/11 02:52 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: wonderwoman]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Yep or to call for slack if the rope is pulling him out of the corner. a lot easier to give out slack before falling. or to evaluate your climbing level better since someone who 'can follow .8-9 and maybe more" should not fall on P1 bonnies. especially since after that he A0'd following Columbia and about pumped out following MG's

Curmudgeon if you were part of the guys who helped him get back to the rock Thanks.

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#60386 - 09/22/11 01:07 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: jakedatc]
wonderwoman Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/11/08
Posts: 46
Even the best of belayers can pull their partners off the rock. I found myself hanging in space this weekend under those circumstances (however the climb was more meandering & we were using doubles), and prusickked my way back onto the rock. Regardless of how hard this guy says he can climb, prussicking is a basic skill.

Still - sucks that he was left dangling! Hope you guys had a great time anyway.

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#60427 - 09/22/11 11:06 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: wonderwoman]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
No c in the word prussik.

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