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#60982 - 10/18/11 05:46 PM Speaking of rescue, here's a twist!
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Grand Teton National Park (WY)
Climber Cited For Creating Hazardous Situation

Rangers have completed an investigation stemming from a search and rescue response in August that was initiated by the activation of a SPOT rescue locator. Dave Shade, 33, of Missoula, Montana, was issued a citation because his actions that day created a hazardous situation during a late-hour rescue operation to retrieve his stranded climbing partner, Jesse Selwyn of Florence, Michigan. Shade was charged with disorderly conduct. On Friday, August 19th, Shade and Selwyn intended to climb the Black Ice Couloir on the northwest side of the Grand Teton, but the two climbers could not find the entrance to the couloir and got off route, ending up on the Grandstand. After an extended discussion about how to proceed, Selwyn informed Shade that he felt he was unable to continue. Selwyn said that he believed he would become injured or die if he attempted to retrace the route they had come. He then told Shade that he was going to call for a rescue by activating the SPOT rescue locator that he was carrying. Until that time, Shade did not know that Selwyn was carrying the device. Selwyn then activated the device and rangers were notified. After they hovered over the scene in a Teton Interagency helicopter and Selwyn signaled that he desired a rescue, Shade told Selwyn that he (Shade) did not need to be rescued. Further discussion ensued and ultimately, Shade left with the party's climbing rope, made four rappels and then began to retrace his route to the Valhalla Traverse. Shade made this decision before confirming that rangers were indeed going to return to rescue Selwyn. The citation was issued because Shade assumed a rescue would occur and left his partner, taking their only climbing rope. Shade's decision created a hazardous condition for Selwyn, since at this point there was no guarantee of rescue. Selwyn was reached by rangers that night and was extracted via short haul with darkness imminently approaching. Climbers are reminded that pursuing these activities requires a high level of personal accountability and responsibility. There is no guarantee of your safety or rescue when climbing or traveling in the backcountry. Disorderly conduct is a violation under the Code of Federal Regulations 36

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#60983 - 10/18/11 08:21 PM Re: Speaking of rescue, here's a twist! [Re: chip]
TerrieM Offline
addict

Registered: 05/14/09
Posts: 425
Loc: Gunks in Summer, Southwest in ...
Well, I guess the Shade guy would probably rather his name in the paper for getting a citation for disorderly conduct than getting his name in the paper for being short-hauled out!

I have to wonder if the Selwyn guy didn't say "yeah, take the rope - I'll wait." If he did - then the citation is bogus. But if he begged and pleaded for him to stay, and the dude left him there, then... yeah.

Wonder how well the two knew each other, since I cannot imagine going out with someone I did know and not having any idea they had one of those SPOT things....

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#60990 - 10/19/11 01:03 PM Re: Speaking of rescue, here's a twist! [Re: TerrieM]
whatthegunks Offline
member

Registered: 05/09/09
Posts: 135
Loc: High Falls, NY
I wonder if "extended discussion" means they yelled and screamed at each other. A friend told me a story yesterday about ice climbing with somebody he didn't know well and having to break trail, carry most of gear, lead all pitches, haul his second, fight the screaming barfies on endless belays, repeatedly correct wrong choices as to direction and yank the bugger soaking wet out of a creek....

There is not much better in this world than a good, solid climbing partner.

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#61007 - 10/20/11 01:38 PM Re: Speaking of rescue, here's a twist! [Re: whatthegunks]
Jeff D. Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/10/05
Posts: 75
Loc: NY, NJ
I think its absurd for this guy to get a citation and the writeup is sensationalist and one sided.

"Selwyn said that he believed he would become injured or die if he attempted to retrace the route they had come."

You go to climb the Black Ice Couloir and then all of a sudden its too dangerous to start rappeling? I can see why the other guy left, its not his obligation to spend a night on the mountain because someone apparently refuses to self rescue without reason while there is still light... What a rediculous situation.

Comon!

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#61015 - 10/20/11 08:02 PM Re: Speaking of rescue, here's a twist! [Re: whatthegunks]
Welle Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/03/08
Posts: 213
Loc: Western Slope
Originally Posted By: whatthegunks

There is not much better in this world than a good, solid climbing partner.


Amen. Add to that 'non-whining'.

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