Not that I can lead this quite yet, but does anyone ever climb the full length crack, as opposed to leaning in from the block? That adds 20 feet or so of steep 5.9ish climbing below the crux sequence. I've never seen anyone lead it this way.
Yes, I think the way it is done from the pit is to climb up to the crux, hang on gear, wish you had started from the block, then continue. I find the move off the block so difficult for the grade.
From SuperTopo's "Shawangunks - Cornerstone of Eastern Traditional Climbing" Thread:
Thread Here Steve Grossman:
Welcome back from Ken's wonderful service gathering, Jstan. I hope that finding this thread was a pleasant surprise. Any tales from battling with this one?
John Stannard:
Steve:
Oh, yes there were many facets to that one. It was my first attempt at a half-way decent first ascent. On my honeymoon in 1969 I had my new wife getting flipped around catching me on it. This may even have contributed to later unfortunate developments. I already knew pitons had to go but the peck crackers I put in the overhung rock kept sliding to the front and out. Feeling as I did, I was wrong to use pitons and leaving fixed pins in place did not right the wrong. What can I say? Once I knew pitons had to go, the fact others were using pins actively in no way excused me.
When a person has just started climbing they go at it in a particular frame of mind. Later, for one reason or another, that mindset changes. Having never really learned how to do cracks( the Gunks don't have very many) this climb took too long to figure out. I did not learn fast enough to suit me. I wanted to do roped climbing not roped bouldering. On the successful try when I got to the wide knee jam I stopped, knowing I had arrived at an end. I knew I was through and wanted to enjoy the moment of completion. It had been a fun four years. Let's face it. At 30 I was already no spring chicken.
When I got down I wondered, "What now?" I thought, "Maybe I can do something helpful?" I did climb afterward. But everything was done for a reason. Without doubt I had less talent for being helpful than I had for climbing. But I thought I might be able to make up for it by being persistent.
You will have to ask others about ratings. As long as a climb is fun and if to do it I have to be better this weekend than I was last weekend, I know everything I need to know.