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#61238 - 11/07/11 07:33 PM Re: Jean Gear Beta [Re: GOclimb]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2326
Loc: Boston
Okay, I found pics taken of me pulling through the roof, and without a doubt, I did *not* place anything over in the right-side crack. There is good evidence that the gray alien I placed was right up in the roof, where you pull through (not out right).

Here's a pic of me trying to place a piece in that spot:



Worth noting is that the last piece I placed before that (down on the face) looks like a red tricam. So that lends credence to the gray alien having been in the roof.

In this poor shot of me pulling through the roof, there's some evidence of that piece being clipped to my lead rope, suggesting that I succeeded in placing a piece there.



Note, the placement I'm referring to is the one by this climber's left knee/shin: http://www.mountainproject.com/images/52/97/106405297_large_8c3d8e.jpg

Oh, and this forum re-sizes the pics. To see them in the size I uploaded them, right-click and select "view image".

GO

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#61242 - 11/08/11 01:24 PM Re: Jean Gear Beta [Re: GOclimb]
SethG Offline
addict

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 475
Loc: NYC
That spot in the linked photo, by Tricia's left knee/shin, is the ball nut spot. If you got a gray Alien in there I'm impressed, I couldn't get anything that big in there while my hand was in the pocket, and I couldn't place anything there without stepping up into it, very strenuous.

I went back to Jean yesterday, planning to place the piece out right (purple Camalot or red Alien-- this time I chose my new Totem red Alien) and just go for it. But I ended up doing the same thing again. I wasn't happy about the potential fall and took a hang without trying the roof, several times. Then I shortened the draw (drag be damned) on the red Alien and said screw it, I'm going for it. And it went fine, it was easier than I thought! I was so mad at myself for my hesitation, but in retrospect I guess it represents progress. next time I'll get the redpoint, I'm sure.


Edited by SethG (11/08/11 01:24 PM)
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#61245 - 11/08/11 02:07 PM Re: Jean Gear Beta [Re: SethG]
fotovult Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 79
Loc: ny
I dug one too, and remember being pretty satisfied with the cam out right, either a .5 or .75.

_________________________
www.chrisvultaggio.com

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#61247 - 11/08/11 09:16 PM Re: Jean Gear Beta [Re: fotovult]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3134
Loc: in your backyard
Originally Posted By: fotovult
I dug one too, and remember being pretty satisfied with the cam out right, either a .5 or .75.





Haha or you could slam in the .75 or 1 camolot right where your left hand is. Shallow if I remember, but good. As for ballnuts its the Red one btw.

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