I tried to lead Jean earlier this year, but bailed without trying the roof because I didn't like that the pro was so far out to the right.

I understand there's a good ball nut placement right there under the roof. I know where this placement is. But I don't have a ball nut. I've never placed one. If I go buy a ball nut to place on Jean, which ball nut should I buy?

It's been a while since I've been on Jean, so I can't recall.

I often carry the two smallest ballnuts with me when climbing. Make sure to learn to set them well, though!

Forget the ball-nuts, there is a bomber .75 placement in the ceiling to the right of where you pull through Jean's roof. Put a shoulder-length sling on it and you are set to send.

I had a .5 out there, I think that's the placement I considered too far out right. I had to extend the runner and I wanted something better. Thanks.

sometimes the best defense is a good offense

For what?

This is funny - I just climbed Jean sixteen hours ago. I got a fantastic red alien (.5 camalot equivalent) out right under the roof, put an extended standard length sling and loved it. The piece is out of the roof enough as to make me think that I would not smack into the wall if I fell.

There used to be a small wire fixed in the "ballnut placement." Did not do the route that season, but it suggests that something could get placed there - right at the lip giving you lots of confidence.

D. L.

how can i help you understand? what dont you get?

He means pull harder

I did it two and a half years ago, and don't recall it at all. But... I did write down this from my ascent: "Very sequency. I'll note that a grey alien was helpful for the last small crack under the roof."

Grey is between yellow and red, or a little smaller than the .5 purple camalot.

Don't know if that's helpful, or if it's even true, but it's what I thought at the time.

Cheers,

GO