I tried to lead Jean earlier this year, but bailed without trying the roof because I didn't like that the pro was so far out to the right.

I understand there's a good ball nut placement right there under the roof. I know where this placement is. But I don't have a ball nut. I've never placed one. If I go buy a ball nut to place on Jean, which ball nut should I buy?

It's been a while since I've been on Jean, so I can't recall.

I often carry the two smallest ballnuts with me when climbing. Make sure to learn to set them well, though!

Forget the ball-nuts, there is a bomber .75 placement in the ceiling to the right of where you pull through Jean's roof. Put a shoulder-length sling on it and you are set to send.

I had a .5 out there, I think that's the placement I considered too far out right. I had to extend the runner and I wanted something better. Thanks.

sometimes the best defense is a good offense

For what?

This is funny - I just climbed Jean sixteen hours ago. I got a fantastic red alien (.5 camalot equivalent) out right under the roof, put an extended standard length sling and loved it. The piece is out of the roof enough as to make me think that I would not smack into the wall if I fell.

There used to be a small wire fixed in the "ballnut placement." Did not do the route that season, but it suggests that something could get placed there - right at the lip giving you lots of confidence.

D. L.

how can i help you understand? what dont you get?

He means pull harder

I did it two and a half years ago, and don't recall it at all. But... I did write down this from my ascent: "Very sequency. I'll note that a grey alien was helpful for the last small crack under the roof."

Grey is between yellow and red, or a little smaller than the .5 purple camalot.

Don't know if that's helpful, or if it's even true, but it's what I thought at the time.

Cheers,

GO

Okay, I found pics taken of me pulling through the roof, and without a doubt, I did *not* place anything over in the right-side crack. There is good evidence that the gray alien I placed was right up in the roof, where you pull through (not out right).

Here's a pic of me trying to place a piece in that spot:



Worth noting is that the last piece I placed before that (down on the face) looks like a red tricam. So that lends credence to the gray alien having been in the roof.

In this poor shot of me pulling through the roof, there's some evidence of that piece being clipped to my lead rope, suggesting that I succeeded in placing a piece there.



Note, the placement I'm referring to is the one by this climber's left knee/shin: http://www.mountainproject.com/images/52/97/106405297_large_8c3d8e.jpg

Oh, and this forum re-sizes the pics. To see them in the size I uploaded them, right-click and select "view image".

GO

That spot in the linked photo, by Tricia's left knee/shin, is the ball nut spot. If you got a gray Alien in there I'm impressed, I couldn't get anything that big in there while my hand was in the pocket, and I couldn't place anything there without stepping up into it, very strenuous.

I went back to Jean yesterday, planning to place the piece out right (purple Camalot or red Alien-- this time I chose my new Totem red Alien) and just go for it. But I ended up doing the same thing again. I wasn't happy about the potential fall and took a hang without trying the roof, several times. Then I shortened the draw (drag be damned) on the red Alien and said screw it, I'm going for it. And it went fine, it was easier than I thought! I was so mad at myself for my hesitation, but in retrospect I guess it represents progress. next time I'll get the redpoint, I'm sure.

I dug one too, and remember being pretty satisfied with the cam out right, either a .5 or .75.

Haha or you could slam in the .75 or 1 camolot right where your left hand is. Shallow if I remember, but good. As for ballnuts its the Red one btw.