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#61533 - 11/22/11 03:25 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: jakedatc]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
So...in sum:

Last Frontier's lower anchor is gone...again. Instead of the chockstone, the tree higher up after much easier climbing has a "new" anchor.

Obnoxious RMC/Jame anchor is alive and well

Falled on Account of Strain could use a little work (new webbing, remove old nut, add new nut)

Bring a knife up Bonnie's Roof

DL

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#61534 - 11/22/11 04:57 AM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
If anyone does Dry Heaves they should also bring a knife and some webbing.. that anchor was scary but it was dark and late when we got off so we just backed up the first rap and trusted it enough for a second.

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#61540 - 11/22/11 02:55 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: jakedatc]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 714
Loc: NYC
Good on you for doing the second pitch, Jake. I think that anchor is scary because most people just do the first pitch of Alley Oop and Dry Heaves to the bolts. I am as guilty as anyone.
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#61543 - 11/22/11 03:10 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: SethG]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Bolts? we didn't see any bolts. perhaps that is why it was such a shitty anchor. like i said... it was dark. leader didnt have headlamp on lead.. i followed poorly with a headlamp on P1.. slipped on the traverse when a foot blew off the smears :P got past the roofs and traversed left to the tree with slings. only did P1.

nevermind then wink go to the bolts not the shitty tree anchor.


Edited by jakedatc (11/22/11 03:13 PM)

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#61545 - 11/22/11 04:12 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: jakedatc]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 714
Loc: NYC
Oh, yeah, use the bolts next time! Maybe you used an anchor above Balrog/Bullfrog?
_________________________
It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#61551 - 11/22/11 04:42 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: SethG]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Won't be a next time for me... it has no appeal to me at all.

must have been Balrog..we went right over that big roof on the way down.

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#61553 - 11/22/11 05:11 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Can anyone justify the slings and rings on the first tree on RMC?


This is a really good question, about one of the most visually apparent anchors out there.

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#61571 - 11/22/11 11:30 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Julie]
Lucander Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 227
Loc: Stone Ridge, NY
JakeDatc - sounds like you hit the Bullfrog anchor, as Balrog is waaaaaaaaay left of Dry Heaves. Rapping the Bullfrog roof instead of Dry Heaves sounds about right. If you're interested, it goes at 5.12a and would be one of the most popular routes at a crag like Waimea.

All the second and third pitches of Alley Oop, Cakewalk, and Dry Heaves have little appeal. Compounding the low-angle, dirty, easy climbing is a descent that is best done by walking the cliff top all the way right to the Madame G rap. I guess they're good if you're looking for solitude on a busy weekend.

Sorry for the thread drift...

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#61730 - 12/04/11 05:25 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: Lucander]
curmudgeon Online   content
addict

Registered: 10/27/10
Posts: 466
Quite the nest on Bonnie's Roof 12/3. The only newish looking thing was the nut with dark yellow cord on the right. The pin seemed pretty snug but old. I followed the wild direct finish which I hadn't done in twenty years. What a blast! I could not believe how empty the cliffs were on a sunny nice weekend day.


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#61731 - 12/04/11 08:10 PM Re: Shawangunk Anchors - Wish Lists and Updates [Re: curmudgeon]
jakedatc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/18/06
Posts: 241
Yea, I don't see why the threaded junk is necessary. There is the Pin and multiple cam placements up there. slings and the cord should get tossed imo all looks like shit.

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