For two years now I have been envisioning getting on what is widely held as the best pitch of 5.10 climbing on the Mac Wall, Graveyard Shift. It is the only route on the wall I have never even touched, and I wanted to save it until such time that I could give it a serious onsight attempt. Finally, I'm climbing routes with really cool and scary names! That day came last Saturday. I had been feeling good, climbing routes at my limit with strenuous gear placements, and feeling good about climbing above my gear with a pump. So we went out early in the morning last Saturday to onsight one of the last triple star 5.10's in the Trapps that I haven't been on.
When I hit the first crux bulge with the black seam I started to struggle. Fishing that small wire in the seam took eons and eons, locked off on a bent arm, I knew I was quickly frying my reserves. I was about to downclimb and try to save the onsight for another day when I found the right size in the right place. I tugged the small brassy straight down a few times, and clipped it, then quickly downclimbed to the good rest below. Beautifully technical climbing ensues through the next 15 or 20 feet, with small gear placed at less then optimum stances, and I felt good committing to the moves above them. In a few minutes I found myself at the stance in the corner.
I was feeling good about the gear I found here, and sussed out the moves on the face to the left. Thin and intricate, once again I committed to the moves knowing full well I had left the last rest I would get before the end of the route. I knew the crux overlap was supposed to be followed by some hard runout climbing, and it weighed heavily on me as I stepped up to the crux. I fiddled with gear in the awkward slot, placing one cam, then replacing it with another. Pulling and tugging on them in different directions, I did not like the way they sat. I looked back down and remembered the awkward little crack 4 feet below me, and flicked a nut in it for a backup. The gear would have to do.
Chalking up and taking a few deep breaths I pulled into the crux. As my body rose higher, I reached up and right for what looked like a good hand. When I hit it, I immediately realized I had been duped into committing to a sucker hold. I couldn't grab anything on it, and I felt gravity tug on me. I was off. The top cam popped out with that sound that leaders despise, and I found myself falling further than my brain had calculated. The last minute nut held, and prevented a monstrosity of a whipper.
I have long since given up being pissed at myself for falling, for not onsighting. For me, this game is about having fun, climbing cool lines, and getting the rope to the tope without hurting myself. Still, it would have been nice to be able to say, "yeah, I onsighted Graveyard Shift"...with a smirk
Oh well. I got back up to the crux and immediately found the placement I should have had. With that confidence, I worked through the brilliant series of moves above, and clipped into the Star Action Chains.
On Wednesday morning I went back to try the redpoint. The gear was memorized, and I was confident. I floated through the bulge, and skipped across the face with ease. I Plugged in the crux gear and didn't even hesitate to shake out. While pulling up through the crux sequence I leaned in and looked down at my feet, then I felt resistance at my head. I leaned in too far, knocking my helmet on the overlap just hard enough to cause my non exisitent foot smear to fail, and I was off again. Oh well, I will get it this coming Tuesday, for sure.
Tuesday morning I found myself at the crux, deftly sliding the crux piece in. I chalked up, and pulled into the crux. Up over the overlap with ease, I wanted the redpoint badly enough that I started rushing to the exit hold. Haphazardly I threw my foot up on the crux foothold and leaned into it, standing up to reach the big jug at the end. I was rushing though, and I didn't place my foot correctly and it came off. We all know when we come off unexpectedly how badly our falling form can be. I found myself spinning out and rotating mid flight. My hand reached back and braced my impact against the rock, but not without a distinct crack being heard.
At first, I thought it was the gear shifting in the slot. within two or three seconds though I knew it wasn't. The pinpoint feeling of pain started to emerge in my ankle. I hung there, slowly working my ankle in circles trying to will the pain away, but it was still there. Without too much thought process I reached back into the rock, stepped on and yelled down to Dave that I was climbing again. Back at the foothold, I placed it properly, and I stayed suspended in that position, deciding whether or not to trust myself to climb higher above my gear and through thre rest of the crux. I crossed my left hand over, pinched the pebble....skipped my feet across the wall, and was latching the big exit jug.
Climbing the final 15' to the anchor it was obvious, I messed up my left ankle. I got lowerd off the chains, dropped my gear, and grabbed a beer out of the cooler, eager to dull the ever growing sensation of badness. I laid on the ground, content for the moment having gotten the rope up the route, and watching Dave lead Men At Arms, all the while the pain and stiffness set in. I watched Parker work the crux sequence of Star Action, and clear the crux, then hobbled myself down to the carraige road.
I sat at home the rest of that brilliant afternoon, watching my ankle become mnore and more disabled. Still, I was in that state of denial. "Don't make a big deal out of this. A few days and it will go away" I told myself. My wife convinced me otherwise and we went to Firstcare in New Paltz where the Doc promptly told me I had broken it.
Thus I sit here typing these words. The meat of the climbing season in full swing, and I am done. I still don't know what my ankle hit on the way down to cause it to break. There is literally nothing for it to hit. Still, I am not that bitter. I managed to get on a pretty cool route three times. I always told myself that I want to be able to lead routes with cool and scary names, so at least I can say that I broke my ankle falling off Graveyard Shift, and not a route called Fluffy Rabbit Tails! have a good November folks, and send some routes for me!!!
RR
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